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THE MOUNTAIN 
THAT WAS GOD 

BEING A LITTLE BOOK ABOUT THE GREAT 
PEAK WHICH THE INDIANS NAMED "TACOMA'' 
BUT WHICH IS OFFICIALLY CALLED "RAINIER" 

B V .1 O H X H . AV I L L I A M S 



O, rarest miracle cf mountain hciijJitx, 
Thou hast the sky for thy imperial dome. 
And direll'st among the stars all days and nights. 
In the far heavens familiarly at home. 

—William Hillis Wynn: *'Mt. Tacoma; an Apotheosis.' 



Second Eilition revised and greally 
enlarfrcd, witli IHO illustrations, 
iniluding eight colored lialftones. 



TACOMA : JOHN H. WILLIAMS 
NEW YORK : G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS : LONDON 

1911 



^^.^' 



n\ 




fk 



te—^ 




SEH PHOTO CO. 



Great Crevasses In the upper part off Cowlitz Glacier. 



Copyright, lf)I(», 1!)11, by Juliii H. Williams. 



ecl.A2Sl)3'33 



^■\^f*i^.sni^ij^s^i,aieaiasii:.Sd 





On the summit of Eagle Rock In winter. Boys looking over an 800-foot precipice. 



FORE WOK D. 

Every suinnicr there is detiumd for illustrated literature describing the mountain variously 
culled "Rainier" or "Tacoma." Hitherto, we have had only small collections of pictures, 
without text, and confined to the familiar south and southwest sides. 

The little book which I now offer aims to show the grandest and most accessible of our ex- 
tinct volcanoes from all points of view. Like the glacial rivers, its text will be found a narrow 
stream flowing swiftly amidst great mountain scenery. Its abundant illustrations cover not 
only the giants' fairyland south of the peak, but also the equally stupendous scenes that await 
the adventurer who penetrates the harder trails and climbs the greater glaciers of the north and 
cast slopes. * * * * 

The title adopted for the book has reference, of course, to the Indian nature worship, of which 
something is said in the opening chapter. Both the title and a small part of the matter are re- 
printed from an article which I contributed last year to the New York Evening Post. Attention 
is called to the tangle in the names of glaciers and the need of a definitive nomenclature. As 
to the name of the Mountain itself, that famous bone of contention between two cities, I greatly 
prefer "Tacoma," one of the several authentic forms of the Indian name used by different tribes; 
but I believe that "Tahoma," proposed by the Rotary Club of Seattle, would be a justifiable 
compromise, and satisfy nearly everybody. Its adoption would free our national map from one 
more of its meaningless names — the name, in this case, of an undistinguished foreign naval 
officer whose only connection with our history is the fact that he fought against us during the 
American Revolution. Incidentally, it would also free me from the need of an apology for using 
the hybrid "Rainier-Tacoma"! * * * Many of the illustrations show wide reaches of won- 
derful country, and their details may well be studied with a reading glass. 

I am much indebted to the librarians and their courteous assistants at the Seattle and Ta- 
coma i)ublic libraries; also to Prof. Flctt for his interesting account of the flora of the National 
Park; to Mr. Eugene Rickseckor, of the United States Engineer Corps, for permission to repro- 
duce his new map of the Park, now printed for the first time; and, most of all, to the photographers, 
both professional and amateur. In the table of illustrations, credit is given the maker of each photo- 
graph. The book is sent out in the hoi)e of promoting a wider knowledge of our country's noblest 
landmark. May it lead many of its readers to delightful days of recreation and adventure. 

Tacoma, June 1, 1910. J. H. W. 



Second Edition. — The text has been carefully revised, nuich new matter added, and the 
information for tourists brought to date. The illustrations have been rearranged, and more 



8 



FORKWORI) 



than lifty new oiit's iiicliidcd. N'icus of llic west and soiitli sides, mainly, ()ccii|)v the first half 
of tlio boolv, while (lie hitcr pages carry tiie reatler east and nortli from the Xisciualiy country. 

Nearly five thousand negative's and photographs have now been examined in selecting copy 
for the engravers. In the tabic of illustrations I am glad to place the names of several ex{)ert 
photographers in Portland, San Francisco, Pasadena and Boston. Their pictures, with other new 
ones obf ained from photographers already represented, make this edition much more complete. For 
the convenience of tourists, as well as of persons unable to visit the Mountain but wishing to know 
its features, 1 have numbered the landmarks on three of the larger views, giving a key in the un- 
derlines. If this soiiiew hat mars the beauty of these pictures, it gives them added value as maps 
of the ;ireas shown. In renewing my acknowledgments to the photographers, I must mention 
especially Mr. Asahel Curtis of Seattle. The help and counsel of this intrepid and public-spirited 
mountaineer have been invaluable. IMr. \. H. Barnes, our Tacoma artist with camera and brush, 
whose fine pictures fill many of the following pages, is about to publish a book of his mountain 
views, for which I bes])eak liberal patronage. 

My readers will join me in welcoming the beautiful verses written for this edition b\ a gracious 
and brilliant woman whose poems have delighted two generations of her countrymen. 

'^I'hanks are a'.-so due to Senator Wesley L. Jones, Superintendent E. S. Hall of the Rainier 
National Park and the Secretary of the Interior for official information; lo Director Ceorge Otis 
Smith of the U. S. Geological Survey for such elevations as have thus far been established by the 
new survey of the Park ; to A. C. McClurg & Co. of Chicago, for permission to quote from Mi.ss Jud- 
son's " Mijtlis and Legends of the Pacific NorUiwenl; to Mr. Wallace Rice, literary executor of the 
late Francis Brooks, for leave to use Mr. Brooks's fine poem on the Mountain; to the librarians at 
the Public Library, the John Crerar Library and the Newberry Library in Chicago, and to many 
others who have aided me in obtaining photographs or data for this edition. 

Lovers of the mountains, in all parts of our country, will learn with regret that Congress, 
remains apparently indifTerent to the conservation of the Rainier National Park and its complete 
open!n,(; to the public. At the last session, a small appropriation was a.sked for much-needed trails 
through the forests and to the high interglacial plateaus, now inaccessible save to the toughest 
mountaineer; it being the plan of the government engineers to build such trails on grades that 
would permit their ultimate widening into permanent roads. Even this was denied. The 
Idaho catastrophe last year again proved the necessity of trails to the protection of great forests. 
\\"\\\\ the loggers pushing their operations closer to the Park, its danger calls for prompt action. 
Furt her, American tourists, it is said, annually spend $200, 000, ()()() abroad, largely to view scenery 
surpassed in their own country. But Congress refuses the $50,000 asked, even refuses $25,000. 
toward making the grandest of our National Parks safe from forest fires and accessible to students 
and lovers of nature! 

May 3, 1911. 




WInthrop (;iacler and St. li^lmo Pass, with Ruth Mountain (the Weiltiet 

Mountains on left. 



II rltiht and Sour-Dough 




White Glacier and Little Tahoma, with eastern end of tlie ■lalol>^ll HanUe iu distance. 



CONTENTS. 

Page. 

The Mountain .Speaks. Poem Edna Dean Proctor 15 

I. Mount " Biff Snow " and Indian Tradition 17 

II. The National Park, its Roads and its Needs 43 

III. The Storv of the Mountain 77 

IV. TheChmbers 113 

V. The Flora of the Mountain Slopes Prof. J. B. Flett 129 

Notes 139 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



The * indicates engravings made from copyrighted photographs, 
illustration. 



See notice under the 



Title. 



THREE - COLOR HALFTONES. 



Spanaway Lake, with reflection of the Mountain 
View from Electron, showing west side of the Mountain 
\'iew northward fnjm top of Pinnacle Peak 
Looking Northeast from slope of Pinnacle Peak 

* Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier 

* Spray Park, from Fay Peak 

Crevasse in Carbon Glacier ... 

North Mowich Glacier and the Mountain in a storm 



Photographer. Page. 
.A. H. Barnes. Frontispiece 
Asahel Curtis 19 
Dr. F. A. Scott 46 
. Dr. F. A. Scott 47 
A. H. Barnes 73 
. W. P. Romano 92 
Asahel Curtis 109 
George V. Caesar 128 



ONE - COLOR HALFTONES. 



* Great crevasses in ui)per part of Cowlitz Glacier Kiscr Photo Co. 

On the summit of Eagle Rock in winter George V. Caesar 7 

Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pa.ss Asahel Curtis S 

White Glacier and Little Tahoma Asahel Curtis 9 

White River Canyon, from moraine of White Glacier Dr. F. A.Scott 12 

Telephoto view from near Electron, showing plateau on the summit Asahel Curtis V.i 

View of the Mountain from Fox I.^land Charles Bedfoid 14 

* The most kingly of American mountains Romans Photographic Co. 16 

Party of climbers on Winthrop (Uacier Asahel Curtis 17 

Ice Terraces, South Tahoma Glacier Rodnev L. Glisan 17 

Mineral Lake and the Mountain A. H. Denman IS 

Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake A. H. Barnes 18 

Niscjuallv Canvon Kiser Photo Co. 21 

♦North Peak, "and South Mowich Glacier A. H. Waitc 22 



10 ILLUSTRATIONS 

Title. Photographer. Page. 

* Uusaltic C'ohuiiiis, Soul li Mowic'h Glacier A. II. Waito 23 

Moiiiilain (ioat A. II. Hariuvs 23 

W Cst .side (if siiiimiit, seen from 'rahoiiia I''ork A. II. Hariics 24 

Iron ami C'opprr iMoiiMlaiii.s in Iinlian Henry's A. CI. Howies, Jr. 25 

("nl ling slejis u]) I'aradise (ilacier I)r. F. A.Scotl 25 

(ireal Crag on riilge .s»>parating North and Soutli Tahonia Glaciers . Dr. F. A. Scott 26 

'I'lii- Wliisiling .Marmot Asaliel Curti.s 26 

View from Ueljica, showing west side of liie Mountain A. II. IJarnes 27 

* Moimtain Fine 10. S. Curtis 28 

* Monnt Wow, or Goal Monnlain K. S. Curtis 28 

Hoiuided Cone of Ml. Si Helen's .\. II. Barnes 29 

*\iew norlhward from Simla\ she, or Ivigle Peak ... i'illshurv Picture Co. 30, 31 

* Simlavsiie, or Fagle Feak Litiklet ter Fliotograiihic Co. 30 

I';x|)loring ice Cave, Paradise ( llacier Dr. 1*'. A. Scott 31 

Junction of North and South 'Fahoma Glaciers A. II. Deiunan 32 

,\nemoncs Miss Jessie Kersiiaw 32 

* North Talioma Glacier . A. II. Waite 33 

* Snow Lake in Indian Henry's A. II. Barnes 34 

A fair Mountaineer Asaiiel Curtis 35 

Indian Ileiuy's, .seen from South Tahonui Glacier A. II. Deiunan 36 

* Southwest side of the Mountain, seen from Indian Henry's. . A. IF Barnes 37 

Climhing Fiimacle Peak (2) "..... Asahel Curtis 38 

A silhouelte on Finnacle Feak Dr. F. A. Scott 39 

* Rough Climbing 10. S. Curtis 39 

Ptarmigan Asahel Curtis 40 

The Mountain, from Puvallup river B. L. .Mdrich, Jr. 40 

Falls of the Little Mashell river A. IF Barnes 41 

Old Stage Road to Longmire Si)rings A.H.Barnes 42 

On l'ierc(> County road, passing <)ho|) \'alley S.C.Lancaster 43 

Cowlitz Chinmeys " S.C.Smith 43 

*Old Road near Spanaway A. II. Barnes 44 

Automobile Party above Nisqually Canyon Asahel Curtis 49 

Prof. O. D. Allen's Cottage Dr. F. A. Scott 49 

"Ghost Trees" Mrs. H. A. Towne 50 

(iovernment Road in the Forest Reserve S. C. Lancaster 51 

" Hanging Cdacier," an ice fall above the Cowlitz Asahel Curtis 51 

Leaving National Park Inn for Paradise Linkletter Photo Co. 52 

* On th(! Sununit , showing Columbia's Crest Asahel Curtis 52 

Faradise \'allev or " Park," and Tatoosh Mountains .... A. IF Barnes 53 

( »n (iovernment Road, a mile above Longmires Linkletter Plioto Co. 54 

Road near "Gaj) Point " Linkletter Photo Co. 54 

Snout of Nisfpially Glacier, and Road Bridge Paul '1'. Shaw 55 

Pony Trail Bridge acro.ss the Nisqually Dr. II. B. Ilinman 65 

Road a mile above the Bridge Asahel Curtis 56 

OtithePonyTrailtoParadi.se Kiser Photo Co. 56 

Sierra Clul) lunching on Niscjually Glacier Asahel Curl is 57 

.\ Mountain Celery Airs. Alexander Thompson 57 

Narada I'alls, on I'aradise River Herbert W. Cilea.son 58 

Washington Torrents, on Paradise River A. FI. Barnes 59 

Portion of Paradi.se Park and Tatoosh Range A.H.Barnes 59 

View of the Mountain from the Tatoosh, with key to landmarks . Herbert W. Gleason 60 

Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott 61 

Tug of War Asahel Ciul is 61 

* Hiking through Paradise Valley in Winter J. IF Weer 62 

* Tatoosh Range, from Reese's Cainj), in Winter J. IF Weer 62 

♦Waterfall above Paradise Valley. Photo, W. F^. Averett; Copyright, Asahel Curtis 63 

Looking from Stevens Glacier to Alt. Adams Dr. F.A.Scott 64 

R.'cse'sCamp C. E. Cutter 64 

("limiting the "Horn" on Unicorn Peak, Asahel Curtis 65 

Stevens Canvon in October A. H. Barnes 66 

Sluiskin Falls A.H.Barnes 67 

Eminent scientist practices the simple life J. B. Flett 67 

* Ni.s(jually Glacier, with its sources A. FI. Barnes 68 

Sierra Club on Niscpially Glacier Asahel Curtis 69 

* Lost to I h(! World Asahel Curtis 69 

"Sunshine" and "Storm" (2) Mrs. H. A. Towne 70 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



11 



Title. 
Nisqually Glacirr, from toj) of (liliralttir 
Mcasuriiifj; the ice flow in Nis(|u:illy (llacicr . 
" Miss Fay Fuller I'lxplorinK a Crevasse 
Fairy Falls, in (ioat Lick iiasiii .... 

* Ciihraltar and its Ncifiihbors 

Crossiiiff Carbon Clacicr 

* Rcllcction l.,ake antl the Mountain . 
Looking uj) from Cowlitz Chimneys to Gibralta 
Diviile of Paradise and Stevens Glaciers 
Old Moraine of Stevens (Jlacier .... 
Preparing for a night at Camp Muir . 
The Bee Hive . 

^hlzama Club on Cowlitz Chimneys . 
Climbing Cowlitz Cleaver to (libraltar 

Mazamas rounding CJibraltar 

Under the walls of Gibraltar 

One of the bedrooms at Camp Muir . 
Perilous position on edge of a great crevasse. 
Climbing the "Chute," west side of Gibraltar 
Looking from top of Ciibraltar to the summit 
View south from Cowlitz Glacier to Mt. Adams 

One of the modern craters 

Steam Caves in one of t he craters .... 
North Peak, or " Liberty Cap." .... 
Goat Peaks, glacier summits in the Cascades 
Ice-bound lake in Cowlitz Park .... 

Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier 

Cro.ssing a precif)itous slope on White Glacier 

* Climbing Goat Peaks in the Cascades . 
Looking up White Glacier to Little I'ahoma 
The Mountain seen from top of Cascade Range 
Great Moraine built by Frj'ing-Pan Glacier on "Goat Island 
Coming around Frying-Pan Glacier, below Little "^l' 
Sunrise al)ovc the clouds. Camp Curtis . 
Looking up from Snipe Lake, below Interglacier 
Passing a big Crevasse on Interglacier 
View North from Mt. Ruth to Grand Park 
Camp on St. Elmo Pass, north side of the Wedge 
East Fac(> of Mountain, with route to summit 

Admiral Peter Rainier 

P'irst picture of the Mountain, from Vancouver's "Voy 
Climbers on St. Elmo Pass 
St. Elmo Pass, from north side 
Russell Peak, from Avalanche Camp 

Avalanche Camp 

Looking up Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp 
Looking across A\'inthrop Glacier to Steamboat Prow 
View south from Sluiskin Mountains across Moraine Park 

Part of Spray Park 

Climbing the s;^racs on Winthrop Glacier 

Ice Pinnacles on the Carbon 

Among the Ice Bridges of Carbon Glacier 

Building Tacoma's electric power plant on the Nisqually (3) 

Hydro-electric plant at Electron 

Cutting canal to divert White River to Lake Tapps 

Mystic Lake, in Moraine Park 

(Jlacier Table on Winthrop Glacier 

Carbon River and Mother Mountains .... 

* Oldest and Youngest of the Climbers 

* P. B. Van Trumj) on his old Camp Groimd 
Lower Spray Park, with Mother Mountains beyond 

* John Muir, President of the Sierra Club 

Coasting in Moraine Park 

Sunset on Crater Lake 

Amphitheatre of Carbon Glacier 



ahoma 



age 



Pliotograjjlier. 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel CiU'tis 

E. S. Curtis 

A. H. liarnes 

E. S. Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

E. S. Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

A. J I. liarnes 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

Kiser Photo Co. 

Asahel Curtis 

Rodney L. Glisan 

A.sahel Curl is 

A. H. Waite 

Charles Bedford 

Asahel Curtis 

A. H. Waite 

Charles Bedford 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

A. W. Ar(h(>r 

Kiser Photo Co. 

S. C. Smith 

S. C.Smith 

A. W. Archer 

S. C. Smith 

Dr. F. A. Scott 

S. C. Smith 

. J. B. Flett 

Dr. F. A. Scott 

A.sahel Curtis 

Dr. F. A. Scott 

Asahel Curtis 

. J. B. Flett 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 



A. W. Archer 

A. W. Archer 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

George Caesar 

Dr. F. A. Scott 

A. W. Archer 

Asahel Curtis 

George V. Caesar 



Asahel Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

Dr. F. A. Scott 

C. E. Cutter 

E. S. Curtis 

Asahel Curtis 

J. Edward B. Greene 

Asahel Curtis 

George V. Caesar 

Asahel Curtis 



Avalanche falling on Willis Wall. 



Photo, Lea Bronson; Copyright, P. V. Caesar 



Page. 

71 

72 

72 

75 

76 

77 

77 

78 

79 

79 

80 

80 

81 

81 

82 

83 

83 

84 

85 

86 

87 

88,89 

88 

89 

90 

93 

93 

94 

94 

95 

96 

96 

97 

97 

98 

98 

99 

100 

100 

101 

101 

102 

102 

103 

103 

104 

104 

105 

106 

107 

107 

108 

111 

112 

112 

113 

113 

114 

115 

115 

116 

116 

117 

117 

118 

119 



li 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



* Hill li of Carhon River 

'rh(> Mount aiiH'crs l)uil(liny; trail on Carl)on Moraine 
The Mountaineers luncliinK in :i crevasse 

LookinjI soutlieast from Ml. Rose 

Ivookinn south from Mt. l{oso, across Crater Lake 

* Looking up Nurtli Mowich Valley .... 

* Spray Falls 

* A I{escue from a Crevasse 

Returning!; from the Sununit 

* View across Moraine I'ark and Carbon ('■ lacier to Motl 

Senecio 

A 11-foot Fir, near Mineral Lake . 

Indian I'ipe 

I'loral Carpet in Indian Henry's Park . 
Mosses and I'erns in the Forest Reserve 
A Hank of White Heather .... 

ili'llehore 

.M|)ine Hemlock and .Mountain Lilies . 

Mountain Asters 

Studyiufi the Phlox . . 
S(iua\v Crass, or Moinitaiii I.ily 
.\valanche l>ilies 

* Moraine Park, Sluiskin Mountains and Mystic 

Sum-ise in Indian Henry's 

.\i\cmone Seed Pods 

\\ind-swcpt Trees on North Side .... 
I,ui)ines 

* The Mountain, seen from Creen River Hot Springs 
Cdacial debris on lower Winthro]) . 



La 



Moun 
Mr 



Mr 



.\n .Vljjine Climbers' Cal)in 



From Whympcr's "Chamonix and Mt. Blanc" 



Photographer. Page. 

. . A. H. Waitc 120 

Asahel Curtis 121 

Asahel Curtis 121 

. George V. Caesar 122 

George V. Cae.sar 123 

. . A.sahel Curtis 124 

. . A.sahel Curtis 125 

. . E. S. Curtis 126 

. . Asahel Curtis 126 

lins A.sahel Curtis 129 

Alexander Thompson 129 

. . A. H. Barnes l.'iO 

. . . J. B. Flett 131 

. . A. H. Barnes 131 

Charles Bedford 132 

. . Asahel Curtis 133 

Alexander Thompson 133 

Mrs. H. A. Towne 134 

. . A. H. Barnes 134 

. . . J. B. Flett 135 

Miss J(>ssie Kershaw 135 

. Asahel Curtis 136 

Asahel Curtis 13(5 

. A. H. Barnes 137 

Asahel Curtis 138 

George V. Caesar 139 

Herbert W. Gleason 139 

. . C. E. Cutter 140 

Asahel Curtis 142 

144 




White KiviT (.iin.von, from the terminal iii<iruin<.- of While i.>lacier. A Hnc example of filaclal sculpture. The river 
seen In the distance Is 2,000 feet below the plateau through which the filacier has carved this valley. 




0.riO 



THE MOUNTAIN SPEAKS. 



I am Tacoma, Monarch of the Coast! 

Uncounted ages heaped my shinins snows; 
The sun by day, by ni^ht the starry host, 

Crown me with splendor; every breeze that blows 

Wafts incense to my altars; never wanes 
The sloiy ii^y adoring children boast, 

For one with sun and sea Tacoma reigns. 

Tacoma — the Great Snow Peak — mighty name 
My dusky tribes revered when time was young! 

Their god was I in avalanche and flame — 

In grove and mead and songs my rivers sung. 
As blithe they ran to make the valleys fair — 

Their Shrine of Peace where no avenger came 
To vex Tacoma, lord of earth and air. 

Ah! when at morn above the mists I tower 

And see my cities gleam by slope and strand, 
What joy have I in this transcendent dower — 

The strength and beauty of my sea-girt land 

That holds the future royally in fee! 
And lest some danger, undescried, should lower, 

From m}' far height I watch o'er wave and lea. 

And cloudless eves when calm in heaven I rest, 
All rose-bloom with a glow of paradise. 

And through my firs the balm-wind of the west, 
Blown over ocean islands, softly sighs, 
While placid lakes my radiant image frame — 

And know my worshippers, in loving quest, 

Will mark my brow and fond lips breathe my name: 

Enrajitured from my valleys to my snows, 

1 charm my glow to crimson — soothe to gray; 

And when the encircling shadow deeper grows, 
Poise, a lone cloud, beside the starry waj^ 
Then, while my realm is hushed from steep to shore, 

I 3'ield my grandeur to divine repose, 

And know Tacoma reigns forevermore! 



South FramingJiam, Mass. 
Marrh, litll. 



OcJUa^ci. cQjtC)LAA.^^(ret<VL 




A party of climbers on Winthrop Glacier. 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS GOD." 



I. 



MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION. 

Long hours we toiled up through the solemn wood, 
Beneath moss-banners stretched from tree to tree; 

At hxst ui)on a barren hill we stood, 
And, lo, above loomed Majesty. 

— Herberl Bnshfurd: "Mount Rainier." 



THE great Mountain fascinates us by its diversity. It is an inspiration and 
yet a riddle to all who are drawn to the mysterious or who love the sublime. 
Every view which the l)reaking clouds vouchsafe to us is a surprise. It 
never becomes com- 
monplace, save to the 
commonplace. 

Old Mrgil's gibe at 
mankind's better half ^ — 
"varium et mutabile 
semper femina" — might 
1 lave been written of this 
fickle shape of rock and 
ice and vapor. One tries 
vainly, year after year, 
to define it in his own 
mind. The daily, hourly 

change of distance, size fl'Jl^i^BP^is«»**^*^"*f^*IJKJK>>'»*" 
and aspect, tricks which 

.1 T ]■ ' , f ■ '*-"* Terraces on South Tahoma Glacier. These vast steps are often seen 

llie Indian S mOUntam where a elacler moves down a steep and Irregular slope. 




18 



THE MOLNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 




Mineral Lake and the Mountain. Distance, eighteen miles. 



sod plays with the puny crea- 
tures swarming more and 
more about his foot; his days 
of frank ncighl)orliness, his 
swift transformations from 
smiles to anger, his fits of 
suUenness and withdrawal, all 
baffle study. Even though 
we live at its base, it is im- 
possible to say we know the 
Mountain, so various are the 
spells the sun casts over this 
huge dome which it is slowly 
chiseling away with its tools 
of ice, and which, in coming 
centuries, it will level with 
the plain. 

We are lovers of the water 
as well as the hills, out here in 
this northwestern corner of 
the Republic. We spend many 
days — and should spend 
iY[orc — in cruising among the hidden bays and park-like islands which make 
Puget Sound the most interesting body of water in America. We grow a bit 
boastful about the lakes that cluster around our cities. Nowhere better than 
from sea level, or from the lakes raised but little above it, does one realize the 
bulk, the dominance, and 
yet the grace, of this noble 
peak. Its imi)ressiveness, 
indeed, arises in part from 
the fact that it is one of the 
few great volcanic moun- 
tains whose entire height 
may be seen from tide level. 
Many of us can recall views 
of it from Lake Washington 
at Seattle, or from Ameri- 
can or Spanaway Lake at 
Tacoma, or from 1 he Sound, 
which will always haunt 
the memory. 

Early one evening, last 
summer, I went with a 
friend to Point Defiance, 

i acoma S IIIIC p;U"k at tllC storm Klmt Peak and Mineral l.akc. viewed from near Mineral l.ake inn. 








^^'■'-^?3IJ' '^^i^ ■ ^mmfymii^^^^ 



kl '"m 



MOUNT "BIG SNOW AND INDIAN TRADITION 



21 




Nlsqually Canyon. 

• • ■ " Where the mountain wall 
Is piled to heaven, and through the narrow rift 
Of the vast rocks, against whose rugged feet 
Beats the mad torrent with perpetual roar: 
Where noonday is as twilight, and the wind 
<.omes burdened with the everlasting moan 
Of forests and far-off waterfalls." — Whittier 



end of tlie promontory on 
which the city is built. We 
drank in refreshment from 
the picture there unrolled 
of broad channels and ever- 
green shores. As sunset 
approached, we watched 
Ihe western clouds build- 
ing range upon range of 
golden mountains above 
the black, Alp-like crags 
of the Olympics. Then, 
entering a small boat, we 
rowed far out northward 
into the Sound. Overhead, 
and about us, the scenes 
of the great panorama 
were swiftly shifted. The 
western sky became a con- 
flagration. Twilight set- 
tled upon the bay. The 
lights of the distant town 
came out, one by one, and 
those of the big smelter, 
near by, grew brilliant. No 
Turner ever dreamed so 
glorious a composition of 
sunlight and shade. But 
we were held by one vision. 
Yonder, in the south- 
east, towering above the 
lower shadows of harbor 
and hills, rose a vast pyra- 
mid of soft flame. The 
setting sun had thrown a 
mantle of rose pink over 
the ice of the glaciers and 
the great cleavers of rock 
which buttress the mighty 
dome. The rounded sum- 
mit was warm with beau- 
tiful orange light. Soon 
the colors upon its slope 
changed to deeper reds, 
and then to amethyst, and 



MOUNT "RIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION 



23 




COPYRIGHT, 1900, BY A. H. WA(TE. 

Basaltic C;olumns, part of the " Colonnade " on south side of South Mowich Glacier. These curious six-sided 
columns of volcanic rock are similar to those bordering the Cowlitz Glacier. 

violet, and pearl gray. The sun-forsaken ranges below fell away to dark neutral 
tints. But the fires upon the crest burned on, deepening from gold to burnished 
copper, a colossal beacon flaming high against the sunset purple of the eastern 
skies. Finally, even this great light paled to a ghostly white, as the supporting 
foundation of mountain ridges dropped into the darkness of the long northern 
twilight, until the snowy summit seemed no longer a part of earth, but a veil of 
uncanny mist, caught up by the winds from the Pacific and floating far above the 
black sky-line of the solid Cascades, that 

* * * heaven-sustaining bulwark, reared 
Between the East and West. 

And when even that apparition had faded, 
and the Mountain appeared only as an uncer- 
tain bulk shadowed upon the night, then came 
the miracle. Gradually, the east, beyond the 
great hills, showed a faint silver glow. Silhou- 
etted against this dim background, the profile 
of the peak grew definite. With no other warn- 
ing, suddenly from its summit the full moon 
shot forth, huge, majestic and gracious, flooding 
the lower world with brightness. Clouds and 
mountain ranges alike shone with its glory. But 
the great peak loomed blacker and more sullen. 

Mountain C;oat. an accidental snap-shot of Ouly, OU ItS hcad, thc wldC CrOWU of SUOW 

the fleet and wary Mazama; godfather of glgamcd WhltC UUdcr thc COld TEyS Of thc mOOU. 

the famous Portland mountain club. " *' 





Wet side .,f the summit, seen from Tahoma Fork of the Nlsqually. on road to Ix,nSmlre Springs. Note the whiteness of 
the Clailal water. This stream Is fed by the united Tahoma ftlacler*. See pp. 32 and 37. 



MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION 



25 



J 


m.. '" 


^^E— ^ 


^" 


■1 


w 1 


■^ , 


^^ 


1 


■ '' 








"v -t V- ~ 




w 


^^^*«inetv. 


-T^-^^ 


-'-m 


^%< 




^tP"^^/ 


B»K 


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"~ 


-^ ^?^- 










.%.■- 







Iron and Copper Mountains (right) In Indian Henry's. The top of Pyramid Peak shows In the saddle beyond 

with Peak Success towering far above. 

No wonder that this mountain of changing moods, overtopping every other 
eminence in the Northwest, answered the idea of God to the simple, imaginative 
mind of the Indians who hunted in the forest on its slopes or fished in the waters 
of Whulge that ebbed and flowed at its base. Primitive peoples in every land 
have deified superlative^manifestations of nature — the sun, the wind, great rivers, 
and waterfalls, the high mountains. By all the tribes within sight of its summit, 
this pre-eminent peak, variously called by them Tacoma (Tach-ho'ma), Tahoma or 
Tacob, as who should say ''The Great Snow," was deemed a power to be feared 

and conciliated. Even 



when the missionaries 
taught them a better faith, 
they continued to hold 
the Mountain in supersti- 
tious reverence — an awe 
that still has power to 
silence their "civilized" 
and very unromantic de- 
scendants. 

The Puget Sound tribes, 
with the Yakimas, Klick- 
itats and others living 
just beyond the Cascades, 
had substantially the 
same language and beliefs, 
though differing much in 
physical and mental type. 




Cutting steps up Paradise Glacier. 



2G 



TIIK MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 




Great Crag on the ridge separating the North and South Tahoma Glaciers, with Tahoma Fork of the Nlsqually 
visible several miles below. This rock Is seen right of center on page 27. 

East of the range, they hved by the chase. They were great horsemen and 
famous runners, a breed of hthe, upstanding, competent men, as keen of wit as 
they were stately in apjiearance. These were "the noble Red Men" of tradition. 
Fennimore Cooper might have found many a hero worthy of his pen among the 
savages inhabiting the fertile valley of the Columbia, which we now call the In- 
land Empire. But here on the Coast were the "Digger" tribes, who subsisted 
chiefly by spearing salmon and digging clams. 
Their stooped figures, fiat faces, downcast eyes 
and low mentality reflected the life they led. 
Contrasting their heavy bodies with their feeble 
legs, which grew shorter with disuse, a Ta- 
coma humorist last summer gravely proved to 
a i)arty of English visitors that in a few gener- 
ations more, had not the white man seized 
their fishing grounds, the squatting Siwashes 
would have had no legs at all! 

Stolid and uninspired as he seemed to the 
whites, the Indian of the Sound was not with- 
out his touch of poetry. He had that im- 
aginative curiosity which marked the native '^''^ Marmot. «hose shrin «histic is often 

beard among the crags. 





« s 

^ o 



e: 



c a 



£ ft< 



S H 

= .a 

85 5 



28 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 



American everywhere. 
He was ever peerinji 
into the causes of 
things, and seeing the 
supernatural in the 
world around him.* 

I'o the great Snow 
Mountain the Indians 
made frequent pilgrim- 
ages, for they thought 
this king of the i)rime- 
val wild a divinity to be 
reckoned with. They 
(ircadetl its anger, seen 
in tiie storms about its 
iieatl, the thunder of 
its avalanches, and the 
volcanic flashes of 
which their traditions told. They courted its favor, symbolized in the wild 
flowers that bloomed on its slope, and the tall grass that fed the mowich, or deer. 
As they ascended the vast ridges, the grandeur about them sjjoke of the 
mountain god. There were groves of trees he must have planted, so orderly were 
they set out. The lakes of the lofty valleys seemed calmer than those on the 
prairies below, the foliage brighter, the ferns taller and more graceful. The song 
of the waterfalls here was sweeter than the music of the tamahnawas men, their 
Indian sorcerers. The many small meadows close to the snow-line, carpeted 
in deepest green and spread with flowers, were the gardens of the divinity, 
tended by his superhuman agents. Strange as it may seem, the nature-wor- 
ship of the silent Red Man had many 

points in connnon with that of 
the imaginative, volatile Greek, who 




Mountain Pine, one of the last outposts of the forest below the 
line of eternal snow. 



* .\mong tho.so who have studied the Puget Sound 
Indians most sympathetically is the Rev. Mr. Hyleboa 
of Tacoma. He eame to the Northwest in 1870, when 
the census gave Tacoma a white population of seventy- 
three. In those days, says Fatlier Hylebos, the Tacoma 
tideflats, now filled in for mills and railway terminals, 
were covered each autumn with the canoes of Indians 
spearing salmon. It was no uncommon thing to see at 
one time on Commencement Bay 1 ,800 fishermen. This 
veteran worker among the ".Siwashes" (French "sau- 
vages") first told me the myths that hallowed the Moun- 
tain for every native, and the true meaning of the 
beautiful Indian word "Tacoma." He knew well all 
the leaders of the generation before the railways: Sluis- 
kin, the Klickitat chief who guided Stevens and \:in 
Trump up to the snow-line in 1870; Stanup, chief of tin 
Puyallups; Kiskax, head of the Cowlitz tribe; Angelina. 
the famous daughter of Chief Seattle, godfather of the 
city of that name, and many others. 




COPYRIGHT, 1S97, Bv E. S. CUR 

Mount Wow. or Goat Mountain, above Mesler's. 




Rounded Cone of Mt. St. Helens, seen from Indian Henry s, forty -five miles away 



so 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 




\v iiorlliHurtI ill early sunimcr from Eafilc Peak, at western end of the Tatoosh. Gibraltar Rock and Little 
of Paradise River below it. Next is seen the Nisquall.v CJIacier, with Nisqually River Issuing from its snout. 
Uo.vond the Kautz, P.vramid Peak and Iron and Copper Mountains rise on the Indian Henry plateau. The 



pcopletl his mountain.^ with iminoitals; and no wood in ancient Greece was ever 
thronged witli hamadr^^ads more real than the Httle gods whom the Indian saw in 

the forests watered by streams from Taco- 
ma's glaciers. 

Countless snows had fallen since the 
mountain god created and beautified this 
home of his, when one day he grew angry, 
and in his wrath showed terril)le tongues of 
fire. Thus he ignited an immense fir forest 
on the south side of the peak. When his 
anger subsided, the flames passed, and the 
land they left bare became covered with 
blue grass and wild flowers — a great 
sunny country where, ])efore, the dark 
forest had been. Borrowing a word from 
the French courcurs des bois who came 
with the Hudson's Bay Company, the 
later Indians sometimes calUxl this r(>gi()M 
"the Big Brule"; and to this day some 
Americans call it the same. But for the 
Big Brule the Indians had, from ancient 
times, another name, connected with 
,.T , r.,, •,.,,,, I, T , their ideas of religion. It was their 

Eaille Peak (Indian name, .SImlayshe, at west end Saglialic IllallC, t llC " Lancl of PcaCC," 
of the Tatoosh. .Mtltude about 6.000 feet. A ^y ^-. ,,,-, ,. ,, ,, ,, 

pony trail three miles lonn leads up from the Inn. xleaVCn. VUV IKlHie, raratUSC NallcV, 




MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION 



31 




COPYRtGHT, 1907 BY PILL5BURY PICTURE CO, 

Tahoma break the eastern skyline. On the extreme right lies Paradise Valley, still deep in snow, with the canyon 
Then come Van Trump Glacier (an "interglacier"), and the big Kautz Glacier, dropping Into its own deep canyon. 
Tahoma Glaciers close the view westward. 



given to the beautiful open vale on the south slope of the Mountain, is an 
English equivalent. 

Here was the same bar to violence which rehgion has erected in many lands. 
The Hebrews had their "Cities of Refuge." The pagan ancients made every altar 
an asylum. Mediseval Christianity constituted all its churches sanctuaries. 

Thus, in lawless ages, the 

hand of vengeance was stayed, 
and the weak were protected. 

So, too, the Indian tradi- 
tion ordained this home of 
rest and refuge. Indian cus- 
tom was an eye for an eye, 
but on gaining this mountain 
haven the pursued was safe 
from his pursuer, the slayer 
might not be touched by his 
victim's kindred. When he 
crossed its border, the warrior 
laid down his arms. Crim- 
inals and cowards, too, were 
often sent here by the chiefs 
to do penance. 

The mountain divinity, 
with his under-gods, fig- 
ures m much of the Siwash Exploring an Ice Cave, ParadiselGlacler. 




Si. 



THK MOUNTAIN THAT WAS '(iOI)' 




Junction of North and South Tahonia Glaciers, viewed from Indian Henry's. The mala Ice stream thus formed, 
seen In the foreground, feeds Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually River. The Northern part of North Tahoma 
Glacier, seen In the distance heyond the wedge of rocks, feeds a tributary of the Puyallup. 

folklore, and the "Land of Peace" is often heard of. It is through such typical 
Indian legends as that of Miser, the greedy hiaqua hunter, that we learn how 
large a place the great Mountain filled in the thought of the aborigines. 

This myth also explains why no Red Man 
could ever be persuaded to an ascent beyond 
the snow line. As to the Greek, so to the 
Indian the great peaks were sacred. The 
flames of an eruption, the fall of an avalanche, 
told of the wrath of the mountain god. The 
clouds that wrapped the summit of Tacoma 
sj)ellcd mystery and peril. Even so shrewd 
and intelligent a Siwash as Sluiskin, with all 
his keenness for "Boston chikamin," the white 
man's money, refused to accompany Stevens 
and Van Trump in the first ascent, in 1870; 
indeed, he gave them up as doomed, and be- 
wailed their certain fate when they defietl the 
Mountain's wrath and started for the summit 
in spite of his warnings. 

Anemones, a familiar mountain flower. I llC hcrO of tllC Iiia(lUa Myth is thc hldiaU 




MOUNT "BK; SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION 



35 



Hip Van Winkle.* He 
dwelt at the foot of 
Tacoma, and, like 
1 rving's worthy, he 
was a mighty hunter 
and fisherman. He 
knew the secret pools 
where fish could al- 
ways be found, and 
the dark places in the 
forest, where the elk 
hid when snows were 
deepest. But for 
these things Miser 
cared not. His lust 
was all for hiaqua, the 
Indian shell money. 

Now, Miser's to- 
tem was Moosmoos, 
the elk divinity. So 
Miser tried, even while 
hunting the elk, to talk 
with them, in order to 
learn where hiaqua 
might be found. One 
night Moosmoos per- 
suaded him that on 
top of the Mountain 
he would find great 
store of it. Making 
him 'two elk-horn 
picks, and filling his 
ikta with dried salmon 
and kinnikinnick, he climbed in two nights and a day to the summit. Here he 
found three big rocks, one like a camas root, one like a salmon's head, the third like 
Ills friendly Moosmoos. Miser saw that Moosmoos had told him truly. 

After long .digging, Miser overturned the rock that was like the elk's head. Be- 
neath lay a vast quantity of hiaqua. This he strung on elk's sinews — enough of 
it to make him the richest of men. Then he hurried to depart. But he left no 
thank-offering to the tanahnawas powers. Thereupon the whole earth shook with 
a mighty convulsion, and the mountain shot forth terrible fires, which melted the 
snows and poured floods down the slopes, where they were turned to ice again by the 
breath of the storm-god. And above the roar of torrents and the crash of thunder. 




A fair Mountaineer at the timber line. Note her equipment, 
including shoe calks. 



♦This legend ia well tokl in "Myths and Legenda of the Pacific Northwest," a delightful book by Katharine 
B. Judson of the Seattle Public Library (Chicago, A. C. McClurg & Co.). See also Prof. W. D. Lyman's papers in 
" Mazama" Vol. 2, and "The Mountaineer," Vol. 2; and Winthrop's " Canoe and Saddle." 




O V 
Z ^ 



38 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 



Miser heard the voices of 
all the taiiiahnawas, hissing: 
"IIia(iuaI IIia(iua! Ila, ha, 
Hiaqua!" 

Panic-stricken at the re- 
sults of ills greed, Miser 
t hrew down his load of treas- 
ure to propitiate the angry 
tainahnawas. But the 
storm-god hurled him down 
the mountain side. Miser 
fell into a deej) sleep. Many, 
many snows after, he awoke 
to find himself far from the 
summit, in a i)leasant coun- 
try of beautiful meadows 
carpeted with flowers, 





abounding in camas roots, 
and musical with the song 
of birds. He had grown 
very old, with white hair 
falling to his shoulders. His 
ikta was empty, save for a 
few dried leaves. Recog- 
nizing the scene about him 
as Saghalie lUahe, he sought 
his old tent. It was where 
hv had left it. There, too, 
was his klootchman, or wife, 
grown old, like himself. 
Thirty snows, she said, she 
had awaited his return. 
Back they went to their 



Climblnft Pinnacle Peak, In the Tatoosh. Elevation (i.500 feet. The 
route leads up from Paradise Valley, over the steep snow field shown 
In the lower view, and thenci' b.v a dlfllcult trail to thi- summit. 



MOUNT "BIC. SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION 




A silhouette on Pinnacle Peak, with Paradise Valley and the 
Nisqually Glacier below. 



iioin'e on the bank of the 
Cowlitz, where he l)ecame a 
famous taniahnawas man, and 
sjx'nt the rest of his days in 
honor, for his tribesmen ree- 
(),<i;iiized that the aged Inihan's 
lieart iiad bcMUi marvelously 
softened and his mind enriched 
by liis experience upon the peak. 
He had lost his love for hiaqua. 
Among the familiar myths 
of the Mountain was one of 
a great flood, not unlike that 
of Noah. I quote Miss Jud- 
son's version: 

WHY THERE ARE NO SNAKES 
ON TAKHOMA. 

A long, long time ago, Tyheo 
Sahale became angry with his people. 
Sahale ordered a medicine man to 

take his bow and arrow and shoot into the cloud which hung low over Takhoma. The medicine 
Mian shot the arrow, and it stuck fast in the cloud. Then he shot another into the lower end 
of the first. Then he shot another into the lower end of the second. He shot arrows until 
he had made a chain which reached from the cloud to the earth. The medicine man told his 

klootchman and his children to climb up the arrow trail. Then he 

-MB-tl^ ^"'*1 t^^^^ good animals to climb up the arrow trail. Then the medi- 

^^ — ^mBI fine man climbed up himself. Just as he was climbing into the 

JT . 1*^.' -I|p cloud, he looked back. A long line of bad animals and snakes were 

^fc!~'*- also climbing up the arrow trail. Iherefore the medicine man broke 

the chain of arrows. Thus the snakes and bad animals fell down on 

the mountain side. Then at once it began to rain. It rained until 

all the land was flooded. Water reached even to the snow line of 

Takhoma. When all the bad animals and snakes were drowned, it 

stopped raining. After a while the waters sank again. Then the 

medicine man and his klootchman and the children climbed out of 

the cloud and came down the mountain side. The good animals 

also climbed out of the cloud. Thus there are now no snakes or 

bad animals on Takhoma. 



Childish and fantastic as they seem to our wise age, 
such legends show the Northwestern Indian struggling 
to interpret the world about him. Like savages every- 
where, he peopled the unknown with spirits good and 
bad, and mingled his conception of a beneficent deity 
with his ideas of the evil one. Symbolism pervaded his. 
crude but very positive mind. Ever by his side the old 
Siwash felt the Power that dwelt on Tacoma, protecting 
and aiding him, or leading him to destruction. Knowing 




RouCh CMlmblng. an illustra- 
tion of perils encountered in 
crossing the glaciers. 



40 



TIIK MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD' 




nothing of true worship, his 
primitive intcUigcncc coukl 
imagine (lod only in things 
cither the most heautit'ul or 
tlie most terrifying; and the 
more we know the Moun- 
tain, the more easily we 
shall understand why ho 
deemed the majestic peak a 
factor of his destiny — an 
infinite force that could, at 
will, bless or destroy. For 
to us, too, though we have 
no illusions as to its super- 
natural powers, the majestic 
peak may bring a message. Before m(> is a letter from an inspiring New England 
writer, who has well earned the right to ai)praise lif(>'s values. "I saw the great 
Mountain three years ago," she says; "would that it might ever be my lot to see 
it again! I love to dream of its glory, and its vast whiteness is a moral force in 

my life." 

***** Perpptual 
And snowy tabornaolc of tho land, 
\\ liilc: i)iiii)!cs at thy l)ase this peaceful sea, 
And all thy hither slopes in cveninf^ bathe, 
I hear soft, twilijfht voices calling down 
From all ih}' sunnnits unto prayer and love. 

— Francis Brooks: ^' Ml. Rainier. ^^ 



l*t:irmi)!!)n, the CJrouso <>l ilio iii'-tii>Uls liiilikr its noiiihbcir. the 
Motintuln (ioat. this l>iril is tame, und ina.v sometimes be cati)*ht by 
hand. In winter Its plumaiie turns from brown to white. 




The Mountain, scon from I'liyallup River, near Tacoma. 




Falls of the Little Mashell River, near Eatonvllle and the road to the Mountain. 




Old Statte Koad to Luniimlrc Sprlnfts and the National Park Inn. showinfi the tall, clear trunks of the giant firs 




LaacasUr 



On Pierce County's splendid scenic road to the Mountain. Passlnii Ohop Valley. 

II. 

THE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS. 

There ure i)lenty of higher mountains, but it is the decided isolation — the absolute 
standing alone in full majesty of its own mightiness — that forms the attraction of 
Rainier. * * * It is no squatting giant, perched on the shoulders of other moun- 
tains. From Puget Sound, it is a sight for the gods, and one feels in the presence of the 
gods. — Paul Fountain: "The Seven Eaglets of the West" (London, 1905). 

(HE first explorers to climb the Mountain, forty years ago, were compelled to 
make their way from Puget Sound through the dense growths of one of the 
world's greatest forests, 
over lofty ridges and deep can- 
yons, and across perilous glacial 
torrents. The hardships of a 
journey to the timber line 
\v(Te more formidable than 
the difficulties encountered 
above it. 

Even from the East the 
first railroad to the Coast had 
just reached San Francisco. 
Thence the traveler came north 
to the Sound by boat. The 
now busy cities of Seattle and 
Tacoma were, on(>, an ambi- 
tious village of 1,107 inhabi- 
tants; the other, a sawmill, 
with seventy persons living 
around it. They were frontier 

settlements, outposts OI Cowlltz chimneys, seen from basin bclow Prylna-Pan Glaclcr. 




44 



TlIK MOINTAIN THAT WAS "CiOD" 




On the way out from Tacoma, over the partly wooded prairie, tlio mitomoblllst sees man \ -. i m s like 

this old road near Spanaway Lake. 

civilization; but civilization paid little attention to them and their great Mountain, 
until the railways, some years later, began to connect them with the big world of 
people and markets beyond the Rockies. 

How different the case to-day! Six transcontinental railroads now deliver their 
trains in the Puget Sound cities. These are: The Northern Pacific, which was the 
first trunk line to reach the Sound ; the Great Northern ; the Chicago, Burlington & 
Qiiincy; the Chicago, Milwaukee & Puget Sound; the Oregon-Washington (Union 
Pacific), and the Canadian Pacific. A seventh, the North Coast, is planned. 

Arriving in Seattle or Tacoma, the traveler has his choice of quick and enjoyable 
routes to the Mountain. He may go by automobile, leaving either city in the 
morning. After traveling one of the best and most interesting roads in the coun- 
try — the only one, in fact, to reach a glacier — he may take luncheon at noon six 
thousand feet higher, in Paradise Park, overlooking great glaciers and close to the 
line of eternal snow. Or he may go by the comfortable trains of the Tacoma East- 
ern (Milwaukee system) to Ashford, fifty-five miles from Tacoma, and then by auto- 
mobile stages, over a picturesque jiortion of the fine highway just mentioned, to the 
National Park Inn at J^ongmire Springs (altitude 2,762 feet). Lunching there, he 
may then go on, \)y coach over the new government road, or on horseback over one 
of the most inviting mountain trails in America, or afoot, as many prefer. Thus he 




\ Kw Nortl>w«rd from lop of Pinnacle Peak in the Taloosh range to Paradise Valley. Nisqually Glacier and 

Gibraltar Rock, eicht miles away 




•*'^***'^J'?»!>- 




Looking Northeast from slope of Pinnacle Peak, across Paradise. Ste\ > 
TKese two views form virtually a panorc 



d Frying Pan Glaciers. 



Tin: NATIONAL I'AUK, ITS KOADS AND ITS NKKDS 



49 




Automobile Party above NIsqually Canyon, Pierce County Road to the Mountain. 

fj;ains Paradise Park and its far-reaching observation point, Camp of the Clouds 
(elevation, 5,800 feet). From the Inn, too, another romantic bridle path leads 
to Indian Henry's famous Hunting Ground, equally convenient as a base of 
adventure. 

Whether the visitor goes to the Mountain by train or by automobile, his choice 
will be a happy one. For either route leads through a country of uncommon charm. 
Each of them, too, will carry the visitor up from the Sound to the great and beauti- 
ful region on the southern slopes which includes the Tahoma, Kautz, Nisqually, 
Paradise and Stevens canyons, with their glaciers and the wonderful upland pla- 
teaus or ''parks" that 
lie between. 

Here let him stay a 
day or a month. Every 
moment of his time will 
be crowded with new 
experiences and packed 
with enjoyment. For 
here is sport to last for 
many months. He may 
content himself with a 
day spent in coasting 
down a steep snow-field 
in midsummer, snow- 
balling his companions, 
and climl)ing Alta Vista 
to look down on the big 
Nisqually glacier in the 

I 1 1 ,1 ■ ,1 ■+ 1 . , Prof. O. D. Allen's cottage, in the Forest Reserve, where the former Yale 

deep UeCl WmCll it lias professor has for years studied the aora of the Mountain. 




50 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 
I 



carved for itself, and up its steep 
slopes to its n6v6 field on the sum- 
mit. ( )r he may explore this whole 
rejiion at his leisure. He may 
cliiul) the hard i noun tain trails that 
radiate from Lonfi;mires and Para- 
dise. He may work up over the 
lower glaciers, studying their cre- 
vasses, ice caves and flow. He will 
want to ascend some of the temt- 
ing crags of the ragged Tatoosh, for 
the panorama of ice-capped peaks 
and dark, forested ranges which is 
there unfolded. After a week or 
two of such "trying-out, "to develop 
wind and harden nuiscle, he may 
even scale the great Mountain itself 
under the safe lead of ex[)erienced 
guides. He may wander- at will 
over the vast platform left by a 
prehistoric explosion which trun- 
cated the cone, and perhaps spend 
a night of sensational novelty (and 
discomfort) in a big steam cave, 
under the snow, inside a dead crater. 
The south side has th(> advan- 
tage of offering the wildest ali)ine 
sport in combination with a well- 
appointed hotel as a base of opera- 
tions. Hence the majority of visitors 
know only that side. Ev(>rybody 
should know it, too, for there is not 
a nobler ]:)laygroun(l anywhere; but 
should also know that it is b}' no means the only side to see. 

One may, of course, work around from the Nisqually canyon and Paradise, east 
or west, t<j the other glaciers and "parks." It is quite practicable, if not easy, to 
make the trip eastward from Camp of the Clouds, crossing Paradise, Stevens and 
Cowlitz glaciers, and thus to reach the huge White glacier on the east side and W'in- 
throp and Carbon glaciers on the north. Every sunnner sees more and more 
visitors making this wonderful journey. 

But the usual way to reach the great north side, especially for parties which 
carry camp e(|uij)ment, is by a Northern Pacific train over the Carbonado branch to 
Fairfax. This is on Carbon river, five miles from the northwest corner of the Na- 
tional Park. Thence the traveler will go by honse or afoot, over a safe mountain 
trail, to Spray Park, the fascinating region between Carbon and North Mowich 




'(ihost Trees" In Indian Henry's. These white stalks 
tell of flres set by careless visitors. 



THE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS 



51 



glaciers. Standing here, on such an eminence 
as Fay Peak or Eagle Cliff, he may have 
views of the Mountain in its finest aspects 
that will a thousand times repay the labor of 
attainment. 

A visit to this less known but no less inter- 
esting side involves the necessity of packing 
an outfit. But arrangements for horses and 
packers are easily made, and each year an 
increasing number of parties make Spray 
Park their headquarters, spending, if they are 
wise, at least a week in this wide region of 
flowering alpine valleys and commanding 
heights. From there they go south, over the 
west-side glaciers, or cast, across the Carbon 
and through the great White river country. 
They camp on the south side of the Sluiskin 
mountains, in Moraine Park, and there have 
ready access to Carbon and Winthrop glaciers, 
with splendid views of the vast precipices that 
form the north face of the Mountain. Thence 
they climb east and south over the Winthrop 
and White glaciers. They visit the beautiful 
Grand Park and Summerland, and either make the ascent to the summit from 
"Steamboat Prow" on the "Wedge," over the long ice slope of the White glacier, 
or continue around to the Paradise country and Longmire Springs. 




GoTernment Road In the Forest Reserve. 




Hanging Glacier," or Ice fall, above Cowlitz Glacier. 



52 



TIIK MorNTAlN 'rilAT WAS "CiOD' 




I.eavlnii the National Park Inn at Longinlrc Springs for Paradise Park. 

Tlic west side has liccu less visited than tlie others, l)ut (liore is a trail from the 
North Mowich to the Nisqually, and from this adventurous explorers reach North 
and Soutli Mowich ami Puyallup j2;laciers. No one has yet climbed the Mountain 
over those glaciers, or from the north side. A view from any of the trails will ex- 
plain why. The great rock spines are more precipitous than elsewhere, the glaciers 
more broken; and the summit is fronted on either side by a huge parapet of rock 
which hurls defiance at anything short of an airshi]). Doul)tless, we shall some day 
tiavel to Crater Peak by aeroplanes, but until these vehicles are equipped with 




I ,1,1 , Mr t'11^9, BV ASAMEL CURTIS 

On the Summit, showlnfi Columbia's Crest, the (treat mound of snow that has, most curi<>u!>l.v, formed on this 
wide, wind-swept platform. This, the actual top of the Mountain, Is 14,363 feet above sea level. 




o 



S-2 



c « 



Ji 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "COD" 




On tbc Ciuveriinient Kouil a mile above Loniinilres. buund for the Nlsqually Clacler. 

luiiiuTs for landing and starting on tin* snow, we shall do best to plan our ascents 

from the south or east side. 

1 have thus briefly pointed out the favorite routes followed in exploring the 

National Park. The time is fast approaching when it will be a truly national 

recreation ground, well known to Amer- 
icans in every State. The coming of 
new railways to Puget Sound and the 
development of new facilities for reach- 
ing the Mountain make this certain.* 
Every step taken for the conserva- 
tion of the natural beauty of the Park 
and its opening to proper use and enjoy- 
ment is a public l)enefit. Outside the 
national reserves, our lumbermen are 
fast destroying the forests; but, if 
l)ropcrly guarded against fire, the great 
Park forest will still teach futur(> gen- 
erations how lavishly Nature i)lants, 
just as the delightful glacial valleys and 
towering landmarks teach how power- 
ful and artistic a sculptor she is. 
Experienced travelers and alpinists 




Near " Cap I'oint," where the road turns from the 
Nlsqually canyon into that of Paradise River. 



*For dotails as to rates for transportation, accoiu- 
modatious and guides, with the rules governing the 
National Park, see the notes at end of the book. 



THE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS 




Snout of NIsquallv Glacier, with the river which It feeds. Though much shrunken since the epoch when it tilled 
the whole canyon, the glacier is still a vast river of Ice; and Its front, seen several hundred yards above the bridge, 
rises sheer 500 feet. The new road to Narada Falls and Paradise Park crosses the Nisqually here. Automo- 
biles are not permitted to go above this point. 

who have visited the Mountain unite in declaring its scenery, combining as it does 
great vistas of ice with vast stretches of noble forest, to be unequaled elsewhere in 
America, and unsurpassed anywhere. 
In the fascination of its glacial story, 
as well as in the grandeur of its fea- 
tures, it has few rivals among the great 
peaks of the world. The geologist, the 
Ijotanist, the weary business man, the 
sportsman, all find it calling them to 
study, to rest, or to strenuous and 
profitable recreation. Here is a re- 
source more lasting than our timber. 
When the loggers shall have left us only 
naked ranges, without the reserves, the 
Park may yield a crop more valuable. 
Until recent years this was known 
only to the hardy few who delight 
in doing difficult things for great 
rewards. But that day of isolation 
has passed. The value of the Park to 

.1 I 1 A ■ 1 ■ Pony bridge over the Nisqually, on trail to Paradise. Note 

tne WnOle American peOJjle is more ^^^^ granite boulders which the stream has rounded 

in rolling them down from the glacier. 




56 



THE MOUNTAIN' Til AT WAS "GOD" 




The road a mile above the bridge, overlooliinij Nisqually Canyon and Glacier. 

and more appicciatcd l)y them, if not yet l)y tlicir official representatives. While 
Congress has dealt less liberally with this tlian with the other great National 

Parks, what it has appro- 
priated has been well spent 
in building an invaluable 
road, which opens one of 
the most important uj^land 
regions to public knowl- 
edge and use. This road 
is a continuation of the 
well-made highway main- 
tained by Pierce County 
from Tacoma, which 
passes through an attrac- 
tive country of partly 
wooded prairies and follows 
the picturesque Nisqually 
valley up the heavily for- 
ested slopes to the Forest 
Reserve and the south- 
western corner of the Park. 
The public has been quick 
to seize the opportunity 
which the roads offered. 
The number of persons 
^ ^ . enteringthePark,asshown 

On the Pony Trail to Paradise. This trail winds through the dense " 

forest above I.onCmires. crosses the Nistiually. and then follows Para- l)y thc anUUal rCpOrtS of tllC 

dlse Kiver, with Its miles of picturesque cascades. It is one of the • , i j. i 

most beautiful mountain paths in America. Superintendent, liaSgrOWU 




THE NATIONAL i'ARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS^NEEDS 



57 



from 1,786 in 1906 to 
morethan 8,000 in 1910. 
In the same period, the 
Yellowstone National 
Park, with its greater 
age, its wider advertis- 
ing, its many hotels, its 
abundance of govern- 
ment money, increased 
its total of visitors from 
17,182 to 19,575. 

For one thing, these 
roads have put it within 
the power of automobil- 
ists from all parts of the 
Coast to reach the 
grandest of American 
mountains and the lar- 
gest glaciers of the 
United States south of 
Alaska. They connect 
at Tacoma, with excel- 
lent roads from Seattle 
and other cities on the 
Sound, as well as from 
Portland and points far- 
ther south. The travel 
from these cities has 
already justified the construction of the roads, and is increasing every year. 
Even from California many automobile parties visit the Mountain. The railway 
travel is also fast in- 
creasing, and the open- 
ing this year of its 
transcontinental serv- 
ice by the Milwaukee 
Railway, which owns 
the Tacoma Eastern 
line to Asford, is likely 
soon to double the 
number of those who 
journey to the Moun- 
tain by rail. 

The new govern- 
ment road to Para- 

diseandthetrails a Mountain Celery. 




sierra Club lunching on Nisqually Glacier. The huge Ice wall In the distance 
Is the west branch of the Nisqually, and Is sometimes miscalled " Stevens 
Glacier." As seen here. It forms a " hanging glacier," which empties Into 
the main glacier over the cll£f. 




58 



TIIH MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "(iOI) 



connect iiijj; with it 
iiavc, however made 
only a fraction of the 
Park accessible. The 
most important work 
for the conservation 
of this great alpine 
area and its opening to 
the pul)lic still remains 
to be done. Congress 
is now asked to provide 
funds for the survey 
and gradual extension 
of the road to the other 
plateaus on all sides 
of the peak. Pending 
the construction of the 
road, it is highly im- 
portant that, as soon 
as the surveys can be 
made, bridle trails 
be built on the easy 
grades thus estab- 
lished. Not only are 
these roads and trails 
nnich needed for the 
('onv(>nience of visi- 
tors to the Mountain, 
but, w'lih the closer 
api)roach of logging 
operations, they are 
year by year becoming 
more nec(>ssary to the 
proper policing of the 
Park and its protection against forest fires. For want of them, great sections of 
forest within the Park are liable to be swept away at any time, before the 
rangers could find their way over the scant and broken trails now existing. The 
re(iuest for better access to the other sides of the Mountain has received the earnest 
indorsement of the Washington legislature, the commercial organizations of the 
entire Coast, and the several mountain clubs in different jiarts of the country. 
Only Congress remains blind to its importance. 

Congressional action affecting this innnediate area began in 1899. A tract 
eighteen miles square, 207,300 acres, to be known as "llanier National Park,"* was 

♦ Forsomo years, CoiiKrcss and tho Interior Department spelled it "Ranier"! A weil-lciiown C'Dnuressnian from 
Seattle eorrected their spelling of the name of the forgotten admiral, and it has sinee been otticially " Rainier National 
Park." 




Narnda l''alls, 185 feet, on Paradise River (altitude, 4.572 feet). Both trail and 
road pass it. " Narada " is an East Indian word meaning " peace." The 
name was given many years ago by a party of Theo.sophists who visited the 
falls. Happily, the effort to change the name to " Cushman Falls " has failed. 



THE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS 



59 







f "It, • -i.' . ^■«WK ■ 







withdrawn from the 2,14G,- 

600 acres of the Pacific 

Forest Reserve, previously 

created. The area tlius 

set apart as " a pubHc park 

for the benefit and enjoy- 
ment of the people" (Act 

of March 2, 1899) was 

alreatly known to a few 

enthusiasts and explorers 

as one of the world's great 

wonderlands. In 18G1 

James Longmire, a pros- 
pector, had built a trail 

from Yelm over Mashell 

mountain and up the Nis- 

qually river to Bear Prairie. 

This he extended in 1884 

to the spot now known as 

Longmire Springs, and 

thence up the Nisqually 

and Paradise rivers to the 

region now called Paradise 

Park. Part of this trail 

was widened later into a wagon road, used for many years by persons seeking 

health at the remarkable mineral springs on the tract which the Longmires 

acquired from the gov- 
ernment before the 
establishment of the 
Forest Reserve. 

The Longmire road, 
rough as it was, long 
remained the best 
route; but in 1903 the 
Mountain found a tire- 
less friend in the late 
Francis W. Cushman, 
representative from 
this State, who per- 
suaded Congress to 
authorize the survey 
and construction of a 
better highway. Work 
was not begun, how- 
ever, until 1906. The 



Washington Torrents, on Paradise River; a series of falls a mile in 
length, seen from the new road to Paradise and still better from the 
pony trail. 




Portion of Paradise Park and the I'atoosh Range. 



THE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS 



61 



yearly appropriation s 

have been small, and 

total only $240,000 for 

surveys, construction 

and maintenance, to the 

end of the last session. 
The road, as now 

open to Paradise valle\ . 

is a monument to the 

enfj;ineering skill of Mr. 

Euji;ene Ricksecker, 

United States Assistant 

Engineer, in local charge 

of the work. Over its 

even floor you go from 

the west boundary of the 

Forest Reserve up the 

north bank of the Nis- 

(lually river, as far as the 

foot of its glacier. Cross- 
ing on the bridge here, 

you climb up and up, 

around the face of a 

b 1 u ff known as Gap 

Point, where a step over 

tiie retaining wall would 

mean a sheer drop of 

a thousand feet into the 

liver below. Thus you 

wind over to the Paradise river and famous Narada Falls, switch back up the side 

of the deep Paradise canyon to the beautiful valley of the same name aljove, and, 

still climl)ing, reach Camp of the Clouds and its picturesque tent hotel. The 

road has brought 
you a zigzag jour- 
ney of twenty-five 
miles to cover an 
air-line distance of 
twelve and a gain 
in elevation of 
3,600 feet. It is 
probably unique in 
its grades. It has 
no descents. Al- 
most everywhere it 

Tug of War between teams picked from the feminine . j.1 i" i 

contingent of the Mountaineers. IS B. gCntlC CUmD. 




Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier. 




Mountain Sports. 



GsJ 



THE MOLNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD' 




COPYRIGHT, 1911, BY J. 



Tatoosh Mountains and Paradise Park in Winter. 



Below Lonsniirc Springs the nuixiniuni grade is 2.5 per cent., and the average, 1.6 
per cent. Beyond, the grade is steeper, but nowhere more than 4 per cent. 

The ahgnmcnt and grades originally planned have been followed, but for want of 
funds only one stretch, a mile and a (juartcr, has yet been widened to the standard 
width of eighteen feet. Lacking money for a broader road, the engineers l)uiit the 
rest of it twelve feet wide. They wisely believed that early opening of the route 
for vehicles to Paradise, even though the road be less than standard width, would 
serve the public by making the Park better known, antl thus arouse interest in mak- 
ing it still more aceessil)le. It will require about S60,000 to complete the road to 
full width, and render it thoroughly secure. 

Of still greater importance, however, to the safety of the Park and its opening 

to public use is the 
carrying out of Mr. 
Kicksecker's fine plan 
for a road around the 
Mountain. His new 
ma)) of the Park, 
'i>Mt ^ 2 .^tf:>i». ^."-s.jfi .. v<'^Mk })rinted at the end of 

tiiis volume, shows the 
route proi)osed. Leav- 
ing the jiresent road 
'iV^^ i^^^k ^^^ ^B^ i^^"^ near Christine Falls, 

below the Nisqually 
glacier, he would 
(l()ubl(> l)ack over the 
hills to Indian Henry's, 
thence dropping into 

fOPVRIGMT, 1911, BY J. M. WE€H. 

Hiliina thr....m. Paradise in Winter. thc CanyOU of TallOma 





COPYRIGHT, 1910, BY ASAHE CURTIS. 



Waterfall from snowfields on ridge above Paradise Valley 



64 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 




!<' < ) r k , climbing up to St. 
Andrew's Park, and so working 
round to the Mowich glaciers, 
Spray Falls, and the gre^t 
"parks" on the north. The 
snout of each glacier would l)e 
reached in turn, and the high 
plateaus which the glaciers 
have left would be visited. 

Crossing Spray Park, 
Moraine Park and Winthrop 
glacier's old bed, the road would 
ascend to Grand Park and the 
Sour-Dough country — a region 
unsurpassed anywhere on the 
Mountain for the breadth and 
grandeur of its views. More 
descents, climbs and detours 
would bring it to the foot of 
White glacier, and thence 
through Summerland and Cow- 
litz Park, and westward to a 
junction with the existing, road 
in Paradise. Its elevation would 
range Ijetween four and seven thousand feet above the sea. The route, as indicated 
on the contour map, suggests very plainly the engineering feats involved in hang- 
ing roads on these steep and deeply-carved slopes. 

Between eighty and a hundred miles of construction work would be required, 
costing approximately $10,000 a mile. Including the completion of the present 




^er- 



Looklnii from Stevens Glacier down Into Stevens Canyon, and 
across the Tatoosh and Cascade ranges to Mt. Adams. 




Reese's C:amp, a^tent hotel on a ridfte In Paradise Park, below Camp of the Clouds (Elevation, .S..S.S7 feet). This Is 
the usual startlnii point of parties to the summit over the South-side route, via Gibraltar. Sec p. 00. 




Climbing the " horn " on the summit of Unicorn Peak, the highest crag In the Tatoosh (Elevation, about 7,000 
feet). The man who first reached the top Is dimly seen In the shadow on the left. 




4) a 



c ^ 



THE NATIONAL PARK. ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS 



07 



road to standard width, 
Congress will thus have to 
provide a round million if 
it wishes to give reason- 
able protection to the 
Park and fully achieve the 
purpose of "benefit and 
enjoyment" for which it 
was created. Such a road 
would justify the Con- 
gress which authorizes it, 
immortalize the engineers 
who build it, and honor 
the nation that owns it. 

Talking with President 
David Starr Jordan of 
Stanford University a few 
weeks ago, I found that 
famous climber of moun- 
tains greatly interested in 
the project for better roads 
and trails in the National 
Park. "How much will 
the whole thing cost?" he 
asked. I told him. 

"Why, a million dol- 
lars would pay for the 

Slulskin Falls, 150 feet, just below Paradise Glacier, named after Sluls- UpKCCp 01 OUC 01 OUr Dat- 
kln, the famous Indian who guided Van Trump and Stevens tlCShipS for a wholc VCar!" 
to the snow line In 1870. 

exclaimed the great advocate of disarmament. 
Whether Congress can be induced to value 
scenery as highly as battleships remains to be 
seen. It has already done very well by the 
Yellowstone National Park, where $2,142,720 
of government money had been spent on road 
building and administration up to July 1, 1910. 
No one who knows the glories of that park will 
deem the amount excessive. But with its still 
grander scenery, its important glaciers, its price- 
less forests, and the greater population within 
(>asy reach of its opportunities for study and 
recreation, the claims of the Rainier National 
Park are at least equal to those of the Yellow- 
stone, and they should be as liberally met. An eminent scientist practices the simple life 

In camp near the Timber Line. 






Nlsqually Cilaclcr. with Its sources in the snow field of the summit. On the rifiht is Gibraltar Rock and on the extreme 
left Kautz Glacier flows down from Peak Success. Note the medial moraines, resulting from junction of ice streams 
above. These apparently small lines of dirt arc often fireat rldCos of rocks, cut from the cliflfs. The picture also 
Illustrates how the marginal crevasses of a glacier point down stream from the center, though the center flows faster 
than the sides. 



THE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS 



69 




!^^^^. 



#^ > 







«- ^ 



CT "Z. OThe Sierra Club on Nlsqually Glacier. This active California organization sent a large party to the 

Mountain in 1905. 

It is not desired that the whole sum named be appropriated at once. Indeed, 
the recommendation of the engineers has been far more modest. As far back as 
1907, Maj. H. M. Chittenden of the United States Engineer Corps, in charge, 
wrote as follows in his report to the Secretary of War: 

A bridle trail around the Mountain, just under the glacier line, is absolutely essential to the 
proper policing of the Park, and very necessary for the convenience of tourists, if they are really 
to have access to the attractions of the Park. The trail should be so located that in time it may 
be enlarged into a wagon road. 

This recommendation has l)een indorsed by Major Chittenden's successor, 
Maj. C. W. Kutz, and may l)e taken as expressing the conviction of the govern- 







COPYRIGHT, 1909, BY 

Lost to the World, 7,500 feet above sea level, with an ocean of cloud rising. 



70 



TlIK MOl NTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 




" Sunshlni'." V'lew of the Mountain from above Sluiskln Tails at A p. tn. 

mcnt ('nji;inoors as to tlu^ niiniinum of work noodcd in the Park at once. For the 
necessary surveys and the building of tlie trails, Mr. Ricksecker informs me 
that S')(),0()() will pr()l)a])ly be enough. This is so insignificant in comparison 
with the good sought and the value of the national i)ro]K'rty to be protected 
and made accessible that its innnediate api)roi)riation by Congress should be J)eyond 
question. Nevertheless, half that amount has twice been asked for in measures 
introduced by Senator S. H. Piles, l)ut in neither case did the apj)r()|)riation i)ass 
both houses. It is to be hojKMl that the present Congress will give the full amount 
of $50,000, which will enable the siu'veys to be completed over the (Mitire route, and 
trails to be built on most, if not all, of that route. Their widening into jiermanent 
roads will follow in due time, when the wonders of glacier, canyon and forest which 
they make accessible are once known. 

The road recentl^y comjileted to l^aradise Valley should be Avidened, by all 
means, and made safer by retaining walls at every danger point. But it is 
doubtful whether automobiles will ever be permittetl above the bridge at the 
Niscjually glacier. Some automobile owners regard the Park as an automobile- 
club preserve, and insist that nothing more be done toward the opening of its 




view near the same point an hour later. 



72 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 




scenery or the conser- 
vation of its forest 
until it is made safe for 
them to run their tour- 
ing cars into Paradise. 
This is unfortunate, 
because it betrays 
ignorance of the pur- 
pose of Congress in 
creating the National 
Parks, namely, the 
education and enjoy- 
ment of all the people, 
not the pleasure of a 
class. Moreover, no 
matter how wide or 
well-guarded the road 
may be above the 
bridge, it can never be 
wide enough to prevent 
a reckless chauffeur 
from causing a terrible 
fatality. It is neces- 
sarily a very crooked 
road, hung upon the 
high ledges of precipi- 
tous cliffs. While the road is safe for coaches drawn by well-broken horses and 

driven by trustworthy drivers, it would be criminal folly to open it to the crowd 

of automobiles that would rush to Paradise Valley. If automobiles are permitted to 

go beyond the Nisqually glacier, it should be only when in charge of a park officer. 
Even from the older and wider roads 

of the Yellowstone automobiles have been 

excluded, although there are no large cities 

near by, as there are here, to send hundreds 

of cars into that park on any pleasant day. 

The automobilists will be wise to accept their 

privilege of access to the foot of the glacier, and 

use it with care, too. Several serious accidents 

have already occurred, and if greater care is not 

exercised, the Interior Department will apply 

the Yellowstone rule, at least to the extent of 

stopping all cars at Longmires. 

Questions like this, involving conflict 

between the interests of a class and the vital 

needs of the Park as a pubhc mstltutlOn, miss Fay Fuller explormc . crevasse. 



Measuring the Ice Flow In Nisqually Glacier. In 1905 Prof. J. N. Le Conte of 
Berkeley, Cal., established the fact that this glacier has an average flow. In 
summer, of 16.2 laches a da.v. The movement Is greater at the center than 
on the sides, and greater on the convex side of a curve than on the concave 
side. It thus Is a true river, though a slow one. The measurements are 
taken by running a tine from one lateral moraine to the other with a transit, 
setting stakes across the glacier at short Intervals, and ascertaining the 
advance they make from day to da.v. 




THE NATIONAL PARK, ITS ROADS AND ITS NEEDS 



75 



give especial emphasis to the recom- 
mendation made by Secretary Ballinger 
on his last annual report. Owing to 
the great numher and extent of the 
National Parks, and the inefficiency of 
the present "perfunctory policy" in 
their administration, Mr. Ballinger 
asked Congress to put the management 
of these institutions under a Bureau of 
National Parks, conducted by a com- 
petent commissioner, and organized for 
(efficient field administration and careful 
inspection of all public work and of the 
conduct of concessionaries. Regarding 
the need of such a systematic and 
scientific organization for the develop- 
ment of the parks, he says: 

A definite policy for their maintenance, 
supervision and improvement should be estab- 
lished, which would enable them to be gradu- 
ally opened up for the convenience of tourists 
and campers and for the careful preservation 
of their natural features. Complete and com- 
prehensive plans for roads, trails, telegraph 
and telephone lines, sewer and water systems, 
hotel accommodations, transportation, and 
other conveniences should be made before any 
large amount of money is expended. The 
treatment of our national parks, except as 
regards the Yellowstone, has not heretofore 
had the benefit of any well-considered or 
systematic plans. In all of them the road 
and trail problems for public travel and con- 
venience to enable tourists to obtain the 
benefits of scenic beauties are primary, but 
sewage, water, and electric-power problems 
are after all of equal importance. 

In line with Secretary Ballinger's 
report. Senator Flint of California intro- 
duced a bill authorizing the creation of 
such a bureau in the Interior Depart- 
ment. The bill failed to get through at the last session, but I am informed by 
Senator Jones that it will be reintroduced. Its purpose is of great public import- 
ance, and the indorsement of the very intelligent directors of the Sierra Club in 
California argues well for its form. Every person interested in the development 
of our National Parks to fullest usefulness and the proper conservation of their 
natural beauty should work for the passage of the bill. 




Fairy Falls in Goat Lick Basin, below Stevens Glacier. 







15 



2 s 



I - 

E3 




Oosslnii Carbon (Vlaclcr. On the Ice slopes, it is customary to dlvltle a large party into companies of ten, with an 
experienced alpinist at the head of each. Note the medial moraines on the lilacler. 

III. 

THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN. 

I askod myself, How was this colossal work performed? Who chiseled these mighty and 
picturesque masses out of a mere protuberance of earth? And the answer was at hand. Ever 
youns, ever mighty, with the vigor of a thousand worlds still within him, the real sculptor was 
ev^n then climbing up the eastern sky. It was he who planted the glaciers on the mountain slopes, 
thus giving gravity a plough to open out the valleys; and it is he who, acting through the ages, 
will finally lay low th(>se mighty monuments, * * * so that the people of an older earth may 
see mould spread and corn wave over the hidden rocks which at this moment bear the weight of 
the Jungfrau. — John Tyndall: "Hours of Exercise in the Alps." 

The life of a glacier is one eternal grind. — Jofni Muir. 



OUR stately Mountain, in its youth, was as comely and symmetrical a 
cone as ever graced the galaxy of volcanic peaks. To-day, while still 
young as compared with the obelisk crags of the Alps, it has already 
taken on the venerable and deeply-scarred physiognomy of a veteran. It is no 
longer merely an overgrown boy among the hills, but, cut and torn by the ice 
of centuries, it is fast assuming the dignity and interest of a patriarch of the 
mountains. 

To some, no doubt, the 
smooth, youthful contours of 
an active volcano seem more 
beautiful than the ruggetl 
grandeur of the Weisshorn. 
The perfect cone of Mt. St. 
Helens, until recently in erup- 
tion, pleases them more than 
the broad dome of Mt. Adams, 
rounded by an explosion in 
the unknown past. But for 
those who love nature and 
the story written upon its 




COPYRIGHT, 1897, BY E. 3. CUHTI9. 

Reflection Lake, below Pinnacle Peak and the Mountain. 




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THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN 



79 




Divide of Paradise and Stevens Glaciers. Once probably separated by a chine of rock, they are now one save for 
a slight elevation In their bed, which turns them respectively toward Paradise Valley and Stevens Canyon. 

faoc, mountains have character as truly as men, and they show it in their features 
a^ clearly. 

Nowhere is this better exemplified than in the monarch of the Cascades. No 
loiificr the huge conical pimple which a volcano erected on the earth's crust, it bears 
ui)on it the history of its own explosion, which scattered its top far over the land- 
scape, and of its losing battle with the sun, which, employing the heaviest of all 




Old Moraine of Stevens Glacier. Now comparatively small and harmless, this glacier did heavy work in its prime. 
Witness, Stevens Canyon (p. 66) and this huge pile of debris, showing that some time ago the glacier, finding a 
cliS In Its way, cut it down and dumped it here. 



80 



THE MOINTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 




Climbers preparing for a night at Camp Muir (altitude 10,000 feet), in order to get an early start for the summit. 
This Is on the Cowlitz Cleaver, below Ciibrultar. John Muir, the famous mountain climber, selected this spot 
as a camp in 1888. .\ stout cabin should be built here to shelter climbers. 

tools, i.s stoadily destroying it. It has already lost a tenth of its height and a third 
of its bulk. The ice is cutting deeper and deeper into its sides. Upon three of 

them, it has excavated great 
amphitheaters, which it is 
ceaselessly driving back toward 
the heart of the peak. As if to 
compensate for losses in size 
and shapeliness, the Mountain 
presents the most important 
phenomena of glacial action to 
be seen in the United States. 
In its dimensions, however, 
it is still one of the world's 
great jieaks. The Rainier 
National Park, eighteen miles 
s(iuare — as large as many 
counties in the East - — has an 
elevation along its western and 
lowest boundary averaging four 
thousand feet above sea level. 
Assuming a diameter for the 

The Bce-Illve. a landmark on Cowlitz Cleaver, below Gibraltar pcuk OI OUly tWCUty milCS, tUC 




THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN 



81 



area occupied l)y this 
creature of a volcano 
exceeds three hundred 
square miles. Of its 
vast surface upwards 
of 32,500 acres, or 
about fifty-one square 
miles, are covered by 
<:;la('iers or the fields of 
ix'rpetual snow which 
(ccd them. A straight 
line drawn through 
from the end of North 
Tahoma glacier, on 
the w(^st side, to the 
end of White glacier, 
on the east, would be 
thirteen miles long. 
The circumference of 
the crest on the 10,000- 




Mazama Club on Cowlitz Chimneys, looking across the Ice-stream 
of the Cowlitz Glacier. 




Climbing Cowlitz Cleaver to Gibraltar. This hacked and 
weather-worn spine left by the glaciers forms one wing of a 
great inverted V, with Gibraltar as Its apex. On the other 
side of it is a drop of several thousand feet to Nlsqually 
Glacier. 



foot contour is nearly seven miles. 
Its glacial system is, and doubtless 
has long been, the most extensive 
on the continent, south of Alaska; 
it is said by scientists to outrank 
that of any mountain in Europe. 
The twelve primary glaciers vary 
in length from three to eight miles, 
and from half a mile to three miles 
in width. There are nearly as 
many "interglaciers," or smaller 
ice streams which gather their snow 
supply, not from the neve fields of 
the summit, but within the wedges 
of rock which the greater glaciers 
have left pointing upward on the 
higher slopes. 

The geological story may be told 
in a few untechnical w^ords. As 
those folds in the earth's crust 
which parallel the coast were slowly 
formed by the lateral pressure of 
sea upon land, fractures often 
occurred in the general incline thus 



82 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 



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created. Thrcnigh the 
fissures that resulted 
the subterranean fires 
thrust molten rock. In 
many cases, the expul- 
sion was of sufficient 
amount and duration 
to form clearly defined 
volcanic craters. The 
most active craters 
l)uilt up, by continued 
eruptions of lava and 
ashes, a great series of 
cones now seen on both 
sides of the Cordillera, 
that huge mountain 
system which borders 
the Pacific from Behr- 
ing sea to the Straits 
of Magellan. Tacoma- 
Rainier is one of the 
more important units 
in tliis army of vol- 
canic giants. 

Unlike some of its 
companions, however, 
it owes its bulk less to 
lava flows than to the 
explosive eruptions 
which threw forth 
bombs and scoriae. 
It is a mass of agglom- 
e rates, with only 
occasional strata of 
solid volcanic rock. 
This becomes evident 
to one who inspects the 
exposed sides of any of 
the canyons, or of the 
great cliffs, Gibraltar Rock, Little Tahoma or Russell Peak. It is made clear in 
such pictures as are on this page and the next. 

This looseness of structure accounts for the rapidity with which the glaciers are 
cutting into the peak, and carrying it away. Most of them carry an extraordinary 
amount of debris, to be deposited in lateral or terminal moraines, or dropped in 
streams which they feed. They are rivers of rock as well as of ice. 




h^i^^ 



Mazamas roundlnii Gibraltar — a reminiscence of the ascent by the Portland 
club In 1905. The precipice rises more than 1000 feet above the trail which 
ofTers a precarious footlnii at the head of a steep slope of loose talus. 



THE STORY OK THE MOUNTAIN 



<SJ} 



Tliat the glaciers of this and every other 
mountain in the northern hemisphere are 
receding, and that they are now mere pyg- 
mies compared with their former selves, is 
well known. What their destructive power 
must have been when their volume was 
many times greater than now may be judged 
from the moraines along their former chan- 
nels. Some of these ridges are hundreds of 
feet in height. As you go to the Mountain 
from Tacoma, either by the Tacoma Eastern 
railway or the Nisqually canyon road, you 
find them everywhere above the prairies. 
They are largest on the north side of the 
Mountain, because there the largest glaciers 
have been busy. Many of them, on all 
sides, are covered with forests that must 
be centuries old. 

Even now, diminished as they are, the 
glaciers are fast transporting the Mountain 
toward the sea. Wherever a glacier skirt > 
a cliff, it is cutting into its side, as it cuts 
into its own bed below. From the over- 
hanging rocks, too, debris falls as a result 
of "weathering." The daily ebb and flow 
of frost and heat help greatly to tear down 
the cliffs. Thus marginal moraines built of 
the debris begin to form, on the ice, far up 
advances, driven by its weight and the resi 



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Under the walls of Gibraltar. 




the side of the peak. As the glacier 
stless mass of snow above, it is often 
joined by another glacier, 
bringing its own marginal 
moraines. Where the two meet, 
a medial moraine results. (See 
illustrations, pp. 68 and 77.) 
Some medial moraines are 
many feet high. Trees are 
found growing on them. In 
Switzerland houses are built 
upon them. Often the debris 
which they transport, as the 
ice carries them forward, in- 
cludes rocks as big as a ship. 

A glacier's flow varies from 
a hundred to a thousand feet 
or more a year, depending upon 



One of the bedrooms at Camp Muir. 




A perilous position on tlie cdije of a great crevasse. Cowlitz Glacier, near end of Cathedral Rocks. 



rilK STORY OF THE MOl^NTAIN 



85 




its volume, its width, 
and the slope of its 
l)ed. As the decades ' 
J) ass, its level is 
{greatly lowered by 
the melting of the ice. 
More and more, earth 
and rocks accumulate 
upon the surface, as 
it travels onward, and 
are scattered over it 
by the rains and melt- 
ing snow. At last, in 
its old age, when far 
down its canyon, the 
glacier is completely 
hidden, save where 
crevasses reveal the 
ice. Only at its snout, 
where it breaks off, as 
a rule, in a high wall 
of ice, do we realize 
how huge a volume 
and weight it must 
have, far above 
toward its sources, or 
why so many of the 
crevasses on the upper 
ice fields seem almost 
bottomless. 

These hints of the 
almost inconceivable 
mass of a glacier, with 

its millions of millions of tons, suggest how much of the Mountain has already 
been whittled and planed away. But here we may do better than speculate. 
The original surface of the peak is clearly indicated by the tops of the great rocks 
which have survived the glacial sculpturing. These rise from one to two thousand 
feet above the glaciers, which are themselves several thousand feet in depth. The 
best known of them is the point formed by Gibraltar and the ridges that stretch 
downward from it, Cowlitz Cleaver and Cathedral Rocks, making a great inverted 
V. Eastward of this, another V with its apex toward the summit, is called Little 
Tahoma; and beyond, still another, Steamboat Prow, forming the tip of "The 
Wedge." 

Spines of rock like these are found on all sides of the peak. They help us to esti- 
mate its greater circumference and bulk, before the glaciers had chiseled so deep. 



Climbing the 



Chute," west side of Gibraltar, 
cut steps in the Ice. 



Here the guides 



86 



Till'] MOl N TAIN I'llAI' WAS "GOD" 





^^^P^^^^"^^""^^^^"*"^"^ But they do even 

more. Wherever lava 
(lows occurred in the 
huildingof the Mountain, 
strata formed; and sucli 
stratification is clearly 
seen at intervals on the 
sides of the great rocks 
just mentioned. Its in- 
cline, of course, is that of 
the former surface. The 
strata point upward — not 
toward the summit which 
we see, but far above it. 
For this reason the geol- 
ogists who have exam- 
ined the aretes most 
closely are agreed that 
the peak has lost nearly 
two thousand feet of its 
height. It blew its own 
head off! 

Such explosive erup- 
tions are among the worst 
vices of volcanoes. Every 
visitor to Naples remem- 
bers how plainly the land- 
scape north of Vesuvius 
tells of a prehistoric de- 
capitation, which left 
only a low, broad plat- 
form, on the south rim of 
which the little Vesuvius 
tiiat many of us hav(^ 
(•limbed was formed by later eruptions, while a part of the north rim is well defined 
in " Monte Sonmia." Similarly, here at home, Mt. Adams and Mt. Baker are trun- 
cated cones, while, on the other hand, St. Helens and Hood are still symmetrical. 
Like Vesuvius, too, Rainier-Tacoma has built upon the plateau left when it lost 
its heatl. Peak Success, overlooking Indian Henry's, and Liberty Cap, the north- 
ern elevation, seen from Seattle and Tacoma, are nearly three miles apart on the 
west side of the broad summit. These are parts of the rim of the old crater. East 
of the line uniting them, and about two miles from each, the volcano built up an 
elevation now known as Crater Peak, comprising two small adjacent craters. 
These burnt-out craters are now filled with snow, and where the rims touch, a big 
snow-hill rises — the strange creature of eddying winds that sweep up through the 




Looking from top of Gibraltar to the Summit. Elevation of camera, 12,300 
feet. In distance is .seen the rim of the crater. The route to this is a 
steady climb, with 2,000 feet of ascent In one mile of distance. Many 
detours have to be made to avoid crevasses. Note the bIS crevasse stretch- 
ing away on right — a " Bergschrund," as the Swiss call a break where 
one side falls below the other. The stratification on its side shows In 
each layer a year's snow, packed into ice. 




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TllK MOINTAIN THAT WAS "(iOI)" 




These views show the larger of the two comparatively modern and small craters on the broad platform left by the 
south, and 1,450 feet from east to west. The other, much smaller, adjoins it so closely that their rims touch. 
(Liberty C;ap) and South l»eak (Peak Success). At the junction of their rims is the great snow hill (on right of 
arc filled with snow, but the residual heat causes steam and gases to escape in places along their rims. 

Sroat flume cut l)y volcanic (^xi)losion and glacial action in the west side of the peak. 
(Sec pp. 14, 27, and 52.) 

This mound of snow is the present actual toj). Believing it the highest i)oint in 
the United States south of Alaska, a party of climbers, in 1894, named if*' Colum- 
bia's Crest." This was long thought to be the Mountain's rightful distinction, for 
different computations by experts gave various elevations ranging as high as 14,529 
feet, with none prior to 1902 giving less than 14,444 feet. Even upon a government 
map i)ublished as lat(> as 1907 the height is stated as 14,526 feet. In view of this 
variety of expert opinion, the flattering name, not unnaturally, has stuck, in spite 
of the fact that the government geographers have now adopted, for the Dictionary 




Steam ( 
vents 



;nvcs in one 
In the rims 



of the craters. The residual heat of the extinct volcano causes steam and gases to escape from 
of the tw€> small craters. Alpinists often spend a night in the caves thus formed in the snow. 



THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN 



89 




explosion which decapitated the Pealt. Prof. Flett measured this crater, and found it 1,600 feet from north to 
Together they form an eminence of 1.000 feet (Crater Peak), at a distance of about two miles from North Peak 
view) called " Columbia's Crest." This is the actual summit. The volcano having long been Inactive, the craters 



of Altitudes, the height found by the United States Geological Survey in 1902, 
14,303 feet. That decision leaves the honor of being the loftiest peak between 
Alaska and Mexico to Mt. Whitney in the California Sierra (14,502 feet). 

The definitive map of the National Park which was begun last summer by the 
Geological Survey, with Mr. Francois E. Matthes in charge, will establish the ele- 
vations of all important landmarks in the Park. Among, these will be the Moun- 
tain itself. Whether this will add much, if anything, to the current figure of the 
Dictionary is uncertain. In any case, the result will not lessen the pride of the 
Northwest in its great peak. A few feet of height signify nothing. No California 
mountain masked behind the Sierra can vie in majesty with this lonely 
pile that rises in stately grandeur from the shores of Puget Sound. 




North Peak, named " Libert.v C:ap " because of its resemblance to the Bonnet Rouge of the French Revolutionists 
Elevation, about 14,000 feet. View taken from the side of Crater Peak. Distance, nearly two miles. 




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COPYRIGHT 1907. BY W 

Spray ParU. from Fay Peak, showing the beautiful resion between the Carbon and North Mowich Glaciers 



THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN 



93 




ice-bound Lake In Cowlitz Park, with top 
of I.lttle Tahoma in distance. 



White River glacier, largest of 
all; Winthrop glacier, named in 
honor of Theodore Winthrop, in 
whose romance of travel, "The 
Canoe and the Saddle," the 
ancient Indian name "Tacoma" 
was first printcnl; Carbon, North 
and South Mowich, Puyallup, 
North and South Tahoma, 
Kautz and Nisqually glaciers. 
The most important secondary 
glaciers, or "interglaciers," ris- 
ing within the great rock wedges 
which I have described, are 
called Interglacier, Frying-Pan, 



The wide area which the 
Mountain thrusts far up into 
the sky is a highly efficient con- 
denser of moisture. Near to 
the Pacific as it is, its broad 
summit and upper slopes col- 
lect several hundred feet of 
snow each year from the warm 
Chinooks blowing in from the 
west. On all sides this vast 
mass presses down, hardened 
into solid granular neve, to feed 
the twelve primary glaciers. 
Starting eastward from Para- 
dise Valley, these principal 
ice-streams are: Cowlitz and 
Ingraham glaciers; White or 






Crevasses In <;owlitz Glacier, with waterfall dropping from 
Cowlitz Park, over basaltic clilTs. 



94 



TilH MOINTAIN THAT WAS -GOD' 




Crossing a precipitous slope on Wliitc (;iaciur. Little Tahonia in distance. 



Stevens, Paradise and Van Trump. All of these are of the true Ali)ine type; that 
is, they are moving rivers of ice, as distinguished from "continental glaciers," tlie 
ice caps which cover vast regions in the Arctic and Antarctic. 

In thus naming the glaciers, I have followed the time-honored local usage, 

giving the names applied by the earliest 
' explorers and since used with Httle vari- 
ation in the Northwest. There has been 
some confusion, however, chiefly owing to 
a recent government map. For instance, 
in that publication. White glacier, properly 
so called because it is the main feeder of 
the White river, was named Emmons gla- 
cier, after S. F. Ennnons, a geologist who 
was one of the first to visit it. It is inter- 
esting to note that in his reports Mr. 
jMnmons him.self called this the White 
Uiver glacier. On the otlier hand, the 
map mentioned, after displacing the name 
White from the larger glacier to which it 
logically belongs, gave it to the ice-stream 
feeding another l)ran<'h of the White river, 
namely, the glacier always locally called 
the Winthrop, and so called by Prof. 
roPVHiGHT. ,„., e, -.. c. sv.TM. Russell in liis report to the Geological 

C:ilmhlni> Coat l'eal<s. In the Cascades, with the ,, . , q.i- 

Mciuntaln ttventy miles away. i^UrVCV \U Iri.ll. 





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TIIK MOINTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 



Similarly, North and 
South JMowich, nain(\s of 
the streams to which they 
f;ive j)irth, were miscalled 
Willis and Edmunds ^hi- 
ciers, after Bailey Willis, 
geologist, and George F. 
r^dmunds, late Ignited 
States senator, who vis- 
ited the Mountain many 
years ago. The Mowieh 
rivers were so named by 
the Indians from the fact 
that, in the great rocks on 
the northwest side of the 
I)eak, just below the sum- 
mit, they saw the figure 
of the mowieh, or deer. 
The deer of rock is there 
still- — he may be seen 
in several pictures in this 
volume, — and so long as 
he keeps to his icy pasture 
it will be difficult to dis- 
])lace his name from the 
glaciers and rivers below. 
The southern branch of 
the great Tahoma gla- 
cier, locally called South 
Tahoma glacier, this map renamed Wilson glacier, for A. D. Wilson, Emmons's 
companion in exploration. Finally, the name of Cleneral Hazard Stevens, who. 




The Mountain seen from the top of Cascade range, with party starting 
west over the forest trails for Paradise. 




<;reat moraine hiillt by l"ryinit-l*un (ilacicr on side of •• <;oat Island.' 



THE STUKV OF TIIK MUL NTAIN 



97 




Coming around Frying-Pan Glacier, below Little Tahoma. 



with ]\Ir. \'an Trumj), 
made the first ascent of 
the peak in 1870, was 
misplaced, being given 
to the west branch of the 
Nisquaily, w^hereas tiie 
general usage has fixed 
the name of that pioneer 
upon the well-defined 
interglacier east of the 
Paradise, and above 
Stevens canyon, wliich 
in its prime it carved on 
the side of the Mountain. 
General Stevens himself writes me from Boston that this is the correct usage. 

Such errors in an official document are the more inexcusable because their 
author ignored local names recognized in the earlier publications of the govern- 
ment and its agents. In such matters, too, the safe principle is to follow local cus- 
tom where that is logical and established. The new map prepared by Mr. Rick- 
secker, and printed herewith, returns to the older and better usage. Unless good 
reason can be shown for departing from it, his careful compilation should be followed. 
Willis Wall, above Carbon Glacier, appropriately recalls the work of Bailey 
Willis. The explorations of Emmons and Wilson may well be commemorated by 
landmarks as yet unnamed, not by displacing fit names long current. 

In connection with his survey of the Park, Mr. Matthes has been authorized to 
collect local testimony as to established names within that area, and to invite sug- 
gestions as to appropriate names for landmarks not yet definitely named. His 
report will doubtless go to the National Geographic Board for final decision on the 
names recommended. Thus, in time, we may hope to see this awkward and con- 
fusing tangle in mountain nomenclature straightened out. 




Sunrise above the clouds, seen from Camp Curtis, on the Wedge, (altitude 9,500 feet); White Glacier below, 
camp was named by the Mountaineers in 1909, In honor of Asahel Curtis, the Seattle climber. 



i)8 



Tin; MorNTAIN THAT WAS "(.Ol)" 



T\]i' written history of 
the Mountain begins with 
its discovery by Captain 
( Jeorge \'an('ou ver. Its first 
ap|)earanee upon a map 
oeeurs in Vanecjuver's well- 
known report, published 
in ]7!)8, after iiis deatli: 
" \'oyaf>;e of Discovery to 
t!ie North Pacific Ocean 
and around the World, 
1790-1795." 

It was in the sununer of 
1 792, shortly after Vancou- 
\cr had entered the Sound, 
he tells U.S, that he first saw 
"a very remarkable hi^li 
round mountain, covered 
with snow, ai)parently at 
the southern extremity of 
the distant snowy range." 
A few days later he again 
mentions "the round snowy 
mountain," "whicli, after 
my friend Kear-Admiral 
Rainier, I distinguished 
by the name of Mount 
Rainier." Nearly all of 
Captain Vancouver's friends were thus distinguished, at the cost of the Indian 
names, to which doubtless he gave no thought. Sonorous "Kulshan" and unique 
"W'hulge" were lost, in order that we might celebrate "Mr. Baker" and "Mr. 
Puget," junior officers of Vancouver's expedition. 




Looklnfi up from " Snipe lake." a small pond below Interglacier, to 
the head of Winthrop C.'lacier and Liberty Cap. 




Paiislng a big crevasse on Intcrfilacler. Sour-Doufth Mountains on the rliiht. with Clrand Park beyond: St. Elmo 
Pass in center, Snipe Lake and Glacier Itasin In depression. 




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TIIK MOUNTAIN JIIAT WAS "CiOD' 







Camp on St. Fllmo Pass, north side of the VVcdftc, between WInthrop (;iaclcr and Interftlaclcr. KIcvatlon, 9.000 
feet. WInthrop <;iacler and the fork of White River which It feeds are seen in distance below. The man is 
Maj. E. S. In);raham, a veteran explorer of the Mountain, after whom Ingraham Glacier Is named. 

Happily, tlie fine Indian name "Taeoma" was not offered up a saerifiee to 
such ob.scurity. Forgotten as he is now, Peter Rainier was, in his time, something 
of a figure. After some ransacking of Hbrarics, I have found a page that gives us 
a glimpse of a certain hard-fought though unequal combat, in the year 1778, 
between an American privateer and two British sliips. It is of interest in connec- 
tion with "Mount Rainier," the name recognized by the Geographic Board at 
Washington in 1889 as officiah 

On tho Sth of July, the 14-p;un ship Ostrich, Commander Peter Rainier, on the Jamaica station, 
in company with the 10-gun armed brig Lowest olTc's Prize, chased a hirgi; brig. After a long run, 
the Ostrich brought the brig, which was the American privateer Polly, to action, and, after an 
engagement of three hours' duration (by which time the Lowestoffe's Prize had arrived up and 




East face of the Mountain, from south side of the Wcdftc, showinjl route to the summit over White (Jiaoicr. 



THE STORY OK THE MOUNTAIN 



101 



taken part in (ho contest), compelled 
her to surrender. * * * * Cap- 
tain Rainier was wounded by a 
musket hall throu{j;h the left breast; 
he could not, however, be prevailed 
upon to {^o below, but remained on 
deck till the dose of the act ion. He 
was posted, and appointed to com- 
mand the 64-gun ship Burford. 
{Allen: ^^ Baltics of the Britiah 
Nary;' Vol. I., London, 1872). 

Before quitting with Van- 
couver and eishtoenth-century 
history of tlic JMountaiu, I note 
that our peak enjoyed a fur- 
ther honor. Captain Vancou- 
ver record.s an intere.sting event 
that took place on the anniver- 
sary of King George's birth ; — 
"on which au.spicious day," 
he says, "I had long since 
designed to take formal posses- 
sion of all the countries we had 
lately been employed in explor- 
ing, in the name of, and for, His 
Britannic Majesty, his heirs 
and successors." And he did! 

After Vancouver's brief mention, and the caricature of our peak printed in his 
work, literature is practically silent about the Mountain for more than sixty years. 
Those years witnessed the failure of England's memorable struggle to make 
good Vancouver's "annexation." Oregon was at last a state. Out of its 
original area Washington Territory had just been carved. In that year of 1853 




Admiral Peter Rainier, of the British Navy, In whose honor Captain 
George Vancouver, in 1792, named the great peak "Mt. Rainier." 




First picture of the Mountain, from Vancouver's "Voyage of Discovery," London, 1798. 



lOi 



Tin: MOl N TAIN THAT WAS "(iOU" 



caiiR' 'J'lu'oclore \\"\n- 
tlirop, of the old New 
iMifilaiid family, who 
was destined to a hist- 
iiit; and pathetic fame 
as an ant hor of dolif^ht- 
I'ul books and a victim 
of the first battle of 
the Civil War. Sail- 
ing into what is now 
the harbor of the city 
of Tacoma, he there 
beheld the peak. We 
feel his enthusiasm as 
he tells of the ai)peal it 
made to him. 

We had rouiiilcd a point, 
: !i:l opciKHi I'uyallop Hay, 
a breadth of sheltorod 
c.ihnnc'ss, when I was sud- 
d'nly awan; of a vast white 
liadow in the water. What 
rljud, piled massive on the 
liorizon, could cast an im- 
age so sharp in outline, so 
full of vigorous detail of 
surface? No cloud, but a 
cloud compeller. It was a 
giant mountain dome of 
snow, HweUing and seeming to fill the aerial spheres, as its image displaced the blue deeps of tranquil 
water. Only its splendid snows were visible, high in the unearthly regions of clear blue noonday skj\ 
Kingly and alone stood this majesty, without any visible con.sort, though far to the north and 
the south its brethren and sisters dominated their realms. Of all the peaks from California to 




Climbers on St. Elmo Pas-s, seen from the upper side. 




St. rimo Pass from north side The name was tSivcn by Maj. Initraham in 1H85 because of a remarkable 
exhibition of St. Elmo's fire seen here durinii a great storm. .\ cabin is needed at this important crossing. 



THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN 



103 




Avalanche C:amp (11.000 feet), on the high, ragged chine between Carbon and Wlnthrop. Carbon Glacier, seen 
below, has cut through a great range, leaving Mother Mountains on the left and the Sluiskins, right. 



Frazcr's River, this one before me was royalest. Mount Regnier * Christians have dubbed it, in 
stupid nomenclature perpetuating the name of somebody or nobody. More melodiously the 
Siwashes call it Tacoma, — ■ a generic term also applied to all snow peaks. Tacoma, under its 
ermine, is a crushed volcanic dome, or an ancient volcano fallen in, and perhaps not yet wholly 
lifeless. The domes of snow are stateliest. There 
may be more of feminine beauty in the cones, and 
more of masculine force and hardihood in the rough 
jiyramids, l)ut the great domes are calmer and 
more divine. 

No foot of man had ever trampled those pure 
snows. It was a virginal mountain, di.stant from 
human inquisitiveness as a marble goddess is from 
human loves. Yet there was nothing unsympa- 
thetic in its isolation, or despotic in its distant 
majesty. Only the thought of eternal peace arose 
from this heaven-upbearing monument like incense, 
and, overflowing, filled the world with deep and 
holy calm. 

Our lives demand visual images that can be 
symbols to us of the grandeur or the sweetness of 
repose. The noble works of nature, and moun- 
tains most of all, 

"have power to make 

Our noisy years seem moments in the being 

Of the eternal silence." 

And, studying the light and the majesty of Tacoma, 
there passed from it and entered into my being a 
thought and image of solemn beauty, which I could 
thenceforth evoke whenever in the world I must 



* Winthrop's error was a common one at that time and has 
remained current till to-day. The admiral's grandfather, the 
Huguenot exile, was " Regnier." but his descendants angli- 
cized the patronymic into " Rainier." 




Russell Peak, from Avalanche Camp, 2,500 feet 
below. Named for Prof. Israel C. Russell, geol- 
ogist. 



Iln 



THE MOINTAIN THAT WAS "(iOl)' 



liavc peace or die. For such 
emotion years of j)il{;riiniiKC were 
wortliily ypeiit. (" 77/c Canoe 
mill the Saddle," published pos- 
thumou.sly in 18G2). 

Ill the controvonsy over 
the Moiiiilaiirs iiaiiR', some 
persons liu\'(; been misled 
into iniuf^inf^ \\'inllir()j) a 
fabricator of jjscudo-lndian 
nomenclature. But his 
work hears scrutiny. He 
wrote before there was any 
dispute as to the name, or 
any rivalry between towns 
to confound partisanship 
with scholarship. lie was 
in the Territory while Cap- 
tain George B. McClellan, 
was surv(\ving the Cas- 
cades to find a pass for a 
railroad. He was in close 
touch with McClellan's 
party, and doubtless knew 
well its able ethnologist, 
(leorge Gibl)s, the Harvard 
man whose works on the 
Indian languages of the 
Northwest are the founda- 
tion of all later books in 
that field. Although he first 
learned it from the Indians, in all likelihood he discussed the name "Tacoma" 
with Ciil)bs, who was already collecting material for his writings, published in the 




Looking up WInthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp. 




Looking across WInthrop Glacier from Avalanche C;amp to Steamboat Prow (the Wedge) and St. Elmo Pass. 

Elevation of cainera, 11,000 feet. 




View south from the Sluiskln Mountains across Moraine Park to the head of Carbon G>ac'er. E.e a^'on of 
camera 6 500 feet. Moraine Park, below, was until recently the bed of an Interftlacier. On the extreme left. 
Avalanche Camp and Russell Peak are seen between Carbon and WInthrop Glaciers. 




Portion of Spray I'ark. with north-side view of the Mountain, showing Observation Kock and timber line. 

Elevation of camera, 7,000 feet. 



TIIK STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN 



107 





Mk 



Climbing the seracs of Wlnthrop Glacier. 



report of the Survey and in the "Contri- 
butions" of the Smithsonian Institution. 

Anionfi; these are tlie vocabularies of a score 

of Indian dialects, which must be mentioned 

here because they are conclusive as to the 

form, meaning and application of the name. 
In his vocabulary of the Winatsha 

(Wenatchee) language, Gibbs entered: 

" T'koma, snow peak." In that of the Nis- 

walli (Nisqually), he noted: "Takob, the 

name of Mt. Rainier." "T'kope." Chinook 

for white, is evidently closely allied. Gibbs 

himself tells us that the Northwestern 

dialects treated b and m as convertil)Ie. 

"Takob" is equivalent to "Takom" or 

"T'koma." Far, then, from coining the 

word, Winthrop did not even change its 

Indian form, as some have supposed, by 

modifying the mouth-filling "Tahoma" of 

the Yakimas into the simpler, stronger and 

more musical "Tacoma." This is as i)ure 

Indian as the other, and Winthrop's 

popularization of the word was a public 

service, as perpetuating one of the most significant of our Indian place-names. 
I have said thus much, not to revive a musty and, to me, very amusing quarrel, 

but because correispondents in different parts of the country have asked regarding 

facts that are naturally part of the 
history of the Mountain. Some would 
even have me stir the eml^ers of that 
ancient controversy. For instance, here 
is the BuUctin of the (ieographical Society 
of Philadelphia taking me to task: 

This book would also do a great service if 
it would help popularize the name "Tacoma" 
in spite of the Mountain's official designation 
"Rainier" — a name to which it has no right 
when its old Indian name is at once so beau- 
tiful and appropriate. It is to be regretted 
that a more vigorous protest has not been 
made against the modern name, and also 
against such propositions as that of changing 
"Xarada Falls" to "Cushman P'alls." 

The mistaken attempt to displace 
t he name of Narada Falls was still-born 
f r( )m i he start, and needed no help to kill 
it. There are many unnamed landmarks 




Ice pinnacles on the Oarbon. 



108 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "(lOI)" 








Among the ice bridges of the Carbon. 



ill the National Park ready to commemorate Mr. Cushman's ainljition to make 
the Mountain a real possession of all the people. As to the other matter — the 
name of the p(>ak itself, —that may safely be left to the American sense of humor, 
lint what I hav(^ said is due in justice to Winthrop, one of the finest figures in 
our literary history. His work in making the peak known demands that his 
name, given by local gratitude to one of its imj)ortant glaciers, shall not be 
removed. 

A word al)out th(> industrial value of th(> Mountain may not be without interest 
in this day of electricity. Within a radius of sixty miles of tlu^ head of Puget Sound, 
more water descends from higli levels to the sea than in any other similar area in the 
United States. A great part of this is colh^ctetl on the largest peak. Hydrau- 
lic engineers have estimated, on investigation, an average annual precipitation, 
for the summit and upi)er slopes, of at least 180 inches, or four times the rainfall in 
Tacoma or Seattle. The melting snows feed the White, Puyallup and Niscjually 
rivers, large streams flowing into the Sound, and the Cowlitz, an important tribu- 
tary of the Columbia. The minimmn flow of these streams is comi)ut(>(l at more 
than 1200 second feet, while their average flow is nearly twice that total. 

The utilization of this large water supply on the steep mountain sloi)es began 
in I'.K) 1 with the erection of tlu^ Electron plant of the Puget Sound Power Company, 
{''or this the water is diverted from the Puyallup river ten miles from the end of its 
glacier, and 17')0 feet above sea level, and carried ten miles more in an open flume 
to a reservoir, from which four steel penstocks, each four feet in diameter, drop it 
to the i)ower house 000 feet below. The plant generates 2S,000 horse power, which 
is conveyed to Tacoma, twenty-five miles distant, at a pressure of (U), ()()() volts, 
and there is distributed for the operation of street railways, lights and factories in 
that city and Seattle. 

A more important development is in progress on the larger White river near 
P)U(kl(y, where the Pacific Coast Power Company is diverting the water by a dam 
and eight-mile canal to Lake Tapps, elevation 540 feet above tide. From this 



THE STORY OF THE MOUNTAIN 



111 



great reservoir it will be 
taken through a tunnel and 
pipe hne to the generating 
plant at Dieringer, elevation 
05 feet. The 100,000 horse 
power ultimately to be pro- 
duced here will be carried 
fifteen miles to Tacoma, for 
sale to manufacturers in the 
Puget Sound cities. 

Both these plants are 
enterprises of Stone & Web- 
ster, of Boston. A competi- 
tive i)l:uit is now nearing 




Building Tacoma's 
Electric Power 
Plant en the NIs- 
q u a 1 1 y Canyon . 
Upper view shows 
site of retention 
dam, above tunnel: 




middle view, end of 
tunnel, where plpe- 
line crosses the 
canyon on a bridge : 
lower view, site of 
the generating 
plant (see p. 21). 




completion by the city of 
Tacoma, utilizing the third 
of the rivers emptying into 
the Sound. The Nisqually 
is dammed above its famous 
canyon, at an elevation of 
970 feet, where its minimum 
flow is 300 second feet. The 
water will be carried through 
a 10,000- foot tunnel and 
over a bridge to a reservoir 
at La Grande, from which 
the penstocks will carry it 
down the side of the canyon 



I 

Tin: MOINTAIX THAT WAS "COD' 




Hydro-electric plant at Electron, on the I'u.vallup Kncr. produLiaji iS.OUU h. p. 

to the 40,000 horso-powor generating plant built on a narrow shelf a fcnv feet above 
the river. Tlie city expects to be able to produce power for its own use, with a 
considerable margin for sale, at a cost at least as low as can be attained anywhere 
in the United States. 

The rocks of which the Mountain is composed are mainly andesites of different 
classes and basalt. But the peak rests upon a jilatform of granite, into which the 
glaciers have cut in their progress. Fine exposures of the older and harder rock 
are seen on the Nisqually, just below the present end of its glacier, as well as on 
the Carbon and in Moraine Park. This accounts for the fact that the river beds 
are full of granite bowlders, which are grinding the softer volcanic shingU; into soil. 
Thus the glaciers are not only fast deforming the peak. They are "sowing the 
seeds of continents to be." 




Cutting canal to divert While Ulver Into Lake Tapps. 




Mystic Lake in Moraine Park. 



IV. 



THE CLIMBERS. 

Cliinh tlio mountains, and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sun- 
shine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their 
energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves. — John Miiir. 

I'pwards — towards the peaks, towards the stars, and towards the great silence! — Ibsen. 

C^ 1\'EN good muscles and wind, the other requisites for an ascent of the 
jf Mountain are a competent guide and grit. It offers few problems hke 
those confronting the climl)er of the older and more crag-like Alps. There 
are no perpendicular cliffs to scale, no al)ysses to swing across on a rope. If you 
can stand the punishment of a long up-hill pull, over loose volcanic talus and the 
rough ice, you may safely join a party for Gibraltar Rock and the summit. But the 
ascent should not be attempted wnthout first spending some time in "try-outs" on 
lower elevations, both to prepare one's muscles for climbing and descending steep 
slopes, and to accustom one's lungs to the rarer atmosphere of high altitudes. 
Such preparation will save 
much discomfort, includ- 
ing, perhaps, a visit of 
''mountain sickness." 

Another warning must 
be given to the general 
tourist. Do not try to 
climb the Mountain with- 
out guides. The seasoned 
alpinist, of course, will 
trust to previous experi- 
ence on other peaks, and 
may find his climb here 

Clacier Table on Winthrop Glacier. Iliis phenomenon is due to the melt- 
COmparatlVely safe and Ing of the glacler. save where sheltered by the rock. Under tlie sun's 

xj , ,1 r i f rays, these "tables" incline more and more to the south, until they 

eaSJ . l5Ut tne late OI sllde on their pedestals. 





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THK CLIMBERS 



115 




T. Y. Callaghan aiul Joseph W. Stevens, of 
Trenton, N. J., who perished on the glaciers 
in August, 1909, should serve as a warning 
against over-confidence. Unless one has inti- 
mate acquaintance with the ways of the great 
ice peaks, he should never attack such a wilder- 
ness of crevasses and shifting snow-slopes save 
in company of those who know its fickle trails. 
Under the experienced guides, many climb- 
ers reach Crater Peak each summer, and no 
accidents of a serious nature have occurred. 
The successful cli miners numbered one hundred 
and fifty-nine in 1910. Many more go only 
as far as Gibraltar, or even to McClure Rock 
(Elevation, 7,385 feet), and are well rewarded 
by the magnificent views which these points 
command of the south-side glaciers and aretes, 
with the ranges lying below. The name "Mc- 
Clure Rock" is a memorial of the saddest 
tragedy of the Mountain. Over the slope 
below this landmark Prof. Edgar McClure of 
the University of Oregon fell to his death on 
the night of July 27, 1897. He had spent the 
day in severe scientific labor on the summit, 
and was hurrying down in the moonlight, much wearied, to Reese's Camp for the 
night. Going ahead of his companions, to find a safe path for them, he called back 

that the ice was too steep. Then there 
was silence. Either he slipped in try- 
ing to re-ascend the slope, or he fainted 
from exhaustion. His body was found 
on the rocks below by his comrades of 
the Mazama Club. 

If one is going the popular route 
and is equal to so long and unbroken a 
climb, he may start with his guide from 
Reese's before dawn, and be on Colum- 
bia's Crest by 11 o'clock. But climb- 
ers frequently go up Cowlitz Cleaver 
in the evening, and spend the night at 
Camp Muir (see pp. 60 and 80). This 
ledge below Gibraltar gets its name 
from John Muir, the famous moun- 
taineer, who, on his ascent in 1888, sug- 
E s CURTIS gested it as a camping place because 

p. B. Van Trump, on his old campUround. above Sluiskin „ • • !■ i l aU 

Falls, where he and Gen. Stevens camped in 1870. Ihc prCSCnCC 01 pUmiCC mCllCateCl tlie 



Oldest and youngest climbers. Gen. Hazard 
Stevens and Jesse McRae. General Stevens, 
with P. B. Van Trump, in 1870, made the first 
ascent. In 1905, he came west from Boston 
and joined the Mazamas In their climb. 
The picture shows him before his tent in 
Paradise Park. He was then 63 years old. 




116 



Tin: MOINTAIN THAT WAS "HOD' 




Lower Spray Park, with Mother Mountains beyond. One of the most beautiful alpine vales In the great 

Spray Park region. 




(.OPVHI&BT, l'(09, GT J. EOWARO B. GREENE. 

John Mulr, President of the Sierra Club and foremost of 
American mountaineers 

•■ His dally teachers had been woods and rills. 
The silence that is In the starry sky. 
The sleep that Is amonfi the lonely hills." 



al)sen('e of severe winds. It offers 
none of the conveniences of a camp 
save a wind-break, and even in that 
respect no one has ever suffered for 
want of fresh air. It is highly desir- 
able that a cabin be erected here for 
the convenience of climbers. Such 
shelters as the Alpine clubs have built 
on the high shoulders of many peaks 
in Switzerland are much needed, not 
only at Muir, but also on the Wedge, 
as well as inside one of the craters, 
where, doubtless a way might be 
found to utilize the residuary heat of 
the volcano for the comfort of the 
climbers. 

Going to the sununit by (his i-oute, 
the important thing is to passCiibral- 
lar early, before the sun starts the 
daily shower of icicles and rocks from 
the cliff over the luu'row trail (see p. 
83). This is the most dangerous 
point, but no lives have been lost 
here. lOvei'ywhere, of course, cautiou 
is needed, and strict obedience to the 



Till-; (MMI5KKS 



117 



guidt'. Once up tlic steep flume caused 
by the melting of the ice where it 
borders the rock (p. 85), the climber 
threads his way among the crevasses 
and snow-mounds for nearly two miles, 
until the crater is reached (pp. 86, 
88. 89). 

The east-side rout{> (]). 100) involves 
less danger, perluij)s, but it is a longer 
climb, with no resting places or wind- 
breaks. It has been used less, because 
it is farther from Paradise Valley. 
Starting from a night's encampment 
on the Wedge (p. 97), parties descend 
to White glacier, and, over its steep 
incline of dazzling ice, gain the sum- 
mit in eight or nine hours. 

The first attempt to scale the 
Mountain was made in 1857 by Lieu- 
tenant (later General) A. V. Kautz. 
There is no foundation for the claim 
sometimes heard that Dr. W. F. Tol- 
mie, Hudson's Bay Company agent 
at Fort Nisqually, who made a bot- 
anizing trip to the lower slopes in 
1833, attempted the peak. Lieutenant 





Sunset on Crater Lake, north of Spray Park, with the Mountain in distance. 



Coasting in Moraine Park in the August sunshine. 

Kautz, with two com- 
panions from fort 
Steilacoom, climbed 
the arete between 
the glacier now named 
after him and the 
Nisqually glacier, but 
fearing a night on the 
summit, and knowing 
nothing of the steam 
caves in the crater, he 
turned back when 
probably at the crest 
of the south peak. 
Writing in the Orer- 
land Monthly for May, 
1875, he says that, 
"although there were 
points higher yet, the 





. . • , COPYRIGHT, 1909, Br P. V. CAESAR. 

Avalanche falling on Willis Wall, at head of Carbon Glacier amphitheatre. The cliff, up to the snow cap on the sum- 
mit. Is more than 4,000 feet high and nearly peipendlcular. Avalanches fall every day, but this picture of a big one 
In action Is probably unique. Willis Wall was named for Bailey Willis, the geologist. 



120 



TIIK iMOlNTAlN THAT WAS "COD 




Birth of ( arhon River, with part cf W illis Wall visible in distance. The great height of this ice front appears 

on noting the man near the river. 



Mountain spread out comparatively flat," having the form of "a ridge perhaps 
two miles in length, with an angle about half-way, and depressions bc^twoen the 
angle and each end of the ridge, which gave the summit the appearance of three 
small peaks." 

It was not until August 17, 1870, thirteen years after Kautz's partial victory, 
that the Mountain was really conquered. This was by P. B. Van Trump of 
Yelm and Hazard Stevens, son of the first governor of Washington, who had dis- 
tinguished himself in the Civil War, and was then living at Olympia as a Federal 
revciuie officer. Each of these pioneers on the summit has pul)lished an interesting 
account of how they got there, General Stevens in the Atlantic Monthly for No- 
vember, 1876, and Mr. Van Trump in the second volume of Mazama. In Stevens's 
article, "The Ascent of Takhoma," his acquaintance with the Indians of the early 
territorial [X'riod, gives weight to this note: 

Tak-ho-iiia or Ta-ho-ma a'.nong the Yakirnas, Klickitat.s, Puyallui)s, Nisquallys and allied 
Iribos i.s the gciicrio tci'in for mountain, used prcci.soly as \vc uso the word "Mount." a.s Takhoma 
Wynaffhie, or Mount Wynatchio. But they all designate Rainier .sim])ly as Takhoma, or '1 he 
Mountain, just as the mountain men used to c-all it "Old lie." 

Sluiskin, an Indian celebrity whom they employed as u guide, led (he young 
men the longest and hardest way, taking them over the Tatoosh mountains instead 
of directly up the Nisqually and Paradise canyons. From the sinnniit of that 
range, they at last looked across the Para(Hse valley, and beheld llie greal peak 
"directlv in front, filling U|) the whole view with an indesei'ibable aspect of magni- 



Till'; CLI.MHKKS 



Ul 



tudc and grandeur." Below them 
lay "long green ridges projected 
from the snow belt, with deep val- 
leys between, each at its ujiper end 
forming the bed of a glacier." 

Descending from the Tatoosh, 
the explorers camped near a water- 
fall which they named Sluiskin 
Falls, in honor of their guide. 
Sluiskin now endeavored, in a long 
oration, to dissuade them from their 
foil}'. Avalanches and winds, he 
said, would sweep them from the 
peak, and even if they should reach 
the summit, the awful being dwell- 
ing there would surely punish their 
sacrilege. Finding his oratory 
vain, he chanted a dismal dirge till 
late in the night, and next morning 
took solemn leave of them. 

Stevens describes their ascent 
by the now familiar path, over 
Cowlitz Cleaver and past Gibraltar. 
From the top of that 'S^ast, scjuare rock embedded in the side of the Mountain," 
they turned west over the upper snow- fields, and thus first reached the southern 
peak, which they named "Peak Success," to commemorate their victory. 

This is a long, exceedingly sharp, narrow ridge, springing out from the main dome for a mile 
into mid-air. On the right, the snow descended in a steep, unbroken sheet into the tremendous 




i IH 



The Mountaineers building trail on the lateral moraine of 
Carbon Glacier. Without such trails, the "tenderfoot" 
would fare badly. 




The Mountaineers luncliinft in a crevasse on White (ilacier, H.OOO feet above the sea, on their ascent 
in l')0'>. Even Little Tahoma. on the left, is far below. 







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1:24 



TIIK MOrNTAIX THAT WAS •(iOl)' 




COPYRIGHT, 1909, BY ASAhEL CURTIS. 

Lookini! up Mowlch Valley. One of the densely wooded regions 
In the National Park that need trails as a means of protection 
aAainst fires. 



basin wliich lies between tlu; southern 
and (lit! northern peaks, and which is 
enclo.sed by tliein a.s by two mighty 
arms.* Shehered Ix-liind a pinnacle of 
ice, we fastened our fhitis upon the 
Alpine staffs, and then, standing erect 
in the furious blast, waved them in tri- 
umph with three cheers. 

It was now five o'clock. They 
had spent eleven hours in the 
ascent, and knowing it would 
be impossible to descend before 
nightfall, they saw nothing to do 
but burrow in the loose rock and 
spend the night as best they could. 
The middle peak, however, was 
evidently higher, and they deter- 
mined first to visit it. Climbing 
the long ridge and over the rim 
of the crater, they found jets of 
steam and smoke issuing from 
vents on the north side. 

Never was a discovery more wel- 
come! Hastening forward, we both 
exclaimed, as we warmed our benumbed 
extremities over one of Pluto's fires, 
that here we would pass the night, 
s(H'ure against freezing to death, at 
least. ... A deep cavern extended 
under the ice. Forty feet within its 
mouth we built a wall of stones around 
a jet of steam. Inclosed within this 
shelter, we ate our lunch and warmed 
ourselves at our natural register. The 
heat at the orifice was too great to hviir 
for more than an instant. The steam 
wet us, the smell of sulphur was nause- 
ating, and the cold was so severe that 
our clothes froze stiff when turned away 
from the heated jet. We pa.ssed a mis- 
erable night, freezing on one side and in 
a hot steam-sulphur bath on the other. 



In October of the same year, S. F. Emmons and A. D. Wilson, of the Geological 
Survey, reached the snow-line by way of the Cowlitz valley and glacier, and ascend- 
ed the peak over tlu; same route which Stevens and Van Trump had discovered 
and which has since been the popular path to Crater Peak. The Kautz route, by 
the cleaver between Kautz and Nisciually glaciers, has recently been foimd 



* Sci- illuslriKinli. ii;n;i. It. 



THE CLIMBERS 



125 



practicable, though extremely diffi- 
cult. In 1891 and again the next 
summer, Mr. Van Trump made an 
ascent along the ridge dividing the 
Tahoma glaciers. In 1905, Raglan 
Glascock and Ernest Dudley, mem- 
bers of the Sierra Club party visiting 
the Mountain, climbed the Kautz 
glacier, and findmg their way barred 
by ice cascades, reached the summit 
by a thrilling rock climb over the 
cliff above the South Tahoma gla- 
cier. This precipice (see p. 37) they 
found to be a series of rock terraces, 
often testing the strength and nerve 
of the climbers. In Sunset Magazine 
for November, 1895, Mr. Glascock 
has told the story of their struggle 
and reward. 

Here the basalt terminated, and a red 
porous formation began, which crumbled in 
the hand. This part of the cliff la}^ a httle 
out from the perpendicular, and there was 
apparently no way of surmounting it. I 
looked at my watch. It was 4:15. In a 
flash the whole situation came to me. It 
would be impossible to return and cross the 
crevasses before dark. We could not stay 
where we were. Already the icy wind cut 
to the bone. 

"We must make it. There is no going 
back," I said to Dudley. I gave him the 
ice a.\, and started to the ascent of the 
remtiining cliff. I climbed six feet, and was 
helpless. I could not get back, nor go for- 
ward. One of my feet swung loose, and 
I felt my hands slipping. Then I noticed 
above me, about six or eight inches to my 
right a sharp, i)rojecting rock. It was here 
or never. I gave a swing, and letting go 
my feet entirely, I reached the rock. It 
held, and I was swinging by my hands over 

a two-hundred-foot void. I literally glued myself to the face of the rock, searching frantically 
for knob or crevasse with my feet. By sheer luck, my toe found a small projection, and from 
here I gradually worked myself up until I came to a broken cleft in the cliff where it was possible 
to brace myself and lower the rope to Dudley. This last ascent had only been fifteen feet, and, 
in reality, had taken but three or four minutes, but to me it seemed hours. 

At 7:45, we reached the summit of the south peak. Here we stopped to look down on Camp 
Sierra. Long shadows spread their mantle across the glaciers, and in the east lay the phantom 




COPVRfCHT, 1909, BY ASAMEL CURTIS. 

Spray Falls, a splendid scenic feature of the north side, 
where It drops more than five hundred feet from the Spray 
Park table-land Into the canyon of Noith Mowlch Glacier. 



l^(i 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD" 




mountain — the shadow of Rainier. A flash of hght 
attracted our attention. We saw tiiat our (•oiM|)anions 
had been watching our progress. 

The White glacier route on the east side was 
first used in 1885 by a ])arty from Snohomisii. 
The same g;hu'ier was traversed by the Wilhs- 
Russell j)arty in 189(). Tiie first woman to make 
the ascent was Miss Fay Fuller, of 'J'aconia, in 
1S!)0, over the Gibraltar route. 

The north and northwest sides, as I have 
said, are as yet uneonquered. Some members of 
the Mountaineers iuive a theory that the sununit 
.^ can be reached from Avalanche Camp by climb- 

R^vv I inf>; alouj:; the face of Russell Peak, and so around 

V .'■' I to the upper snowfield of Winthrop glacier. They 

have seen mountain goats making the trip, and 
l)ropose to try it themselves. Whether they suc- 
ceed or not, this trail will never be popular, owing 
to daily landslides in the loose rock of the cliff. 

A rescue from a crevasse. J^^ J397 ^^^,J JQQ^^ ^Jj^, JMazaUUl ( "lul) of Port- 

land sent jxirtics to the IVIountain, each making the ascent over the Gibraltar 
route. The Sierra Glub of California was also rejiresented in the latter year by a 
delegation of climbers who took the same path to the summit. In 1900, the Moun- 
taineers ( "lub of Seattle spent several weeks on the Mountain, ent(^ring the National 
Park by the Carbon trail, camping in Moraine Park on the north side, exjjloring 
Spray Park and the Carlion glacier, crossing Winthrop glacier to the Wedge, and 
thence climbing White glacier to the summit. Many members of tlu^ Appalachian 
Club and American Alpine Clubs and of European organizations of similar j)ur- 
])ose have climbed to Crater Peak, either in company with the Western clubs 
named, or in smaller parties. Noteworthy accounts of th(>se ascents have been 
l)rinted in the publications of the several cIuIjs, as well as in magazines of wider 
circulation, and have done much to make the IMountain known to the public. 
The princiijul articles arc cited in a bibliographical note at the end of this volume. 




Keturnlnii from tite summit. The Moudi.iIiu'its cndlnii a moni<>ral>l>' ouilnii In l'>0<f. Winthrop <;iacier la 
forciiround, .Sluiskin Mountains In distance. 




LooUinR down from I'larmiiian Rid>;c inio ihr Canyon of the Nortli Movvich Glacier and up to ihc cloudwu-.illuil I'r.xU 







view looking west across Moraine Park and Carbon <;iacler to Mother Mountains. 



V. 

THE FLORA OF THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES. 

By PROF. J. B. FLETT.* 

Of all the firo-mountains which, like beacons, once blazed along the Pacific Coast, Mount 
Rainier is the noblest in form. Its massive white dome rises out of its forests, like a world by 
itself. Above the forests there is a zone of the loveliest flowers, fifty miles in circuit and nearly 
two miles wide, so closely planted and luxuriant that it seems as if Nature, glad to make an open 
space between woods so dense and ice so deep, were economizing the precious ground, and trying 
to see how many of her darlings she can get together in one mountain wreath — daisies, anemones, 
columbines, erythroniums, larkspurs, etc., among which we wade knee-deep and waist-deep, the 
bright corollas in myriads touching petal to petal. Altogether this is the richest subalpine garden 
I ever found, a perfect floral elysium. — John Muir: "Our National Parks." 

NO ONE can visit the Mountain without being impressed by its wild flowers. 
These are the more noticeable because of their high color — a common 
characteristic of flowers in alpine regions. As we visit the upland meadows 
at a season when the spring flowers of the lowlands have gone to seed, we find there 
another spring season with flowers in still greater number and more varied in color. 
The base of the Mountain up to an altitude of about 4,000 feet is covered by 
a somber forest of evergreens 
composed of the white and 
l)lack pines; Douglas, Lovely 
and Noble firs; the white cedar; 
spruce, and hemlock. There 
are found also several (l(>ci(luous 
trees — large-leafed maple, 

* Prof. Flett knows the Mountain well. 
He has spent many summers in its "parks," 
has eiimbed to its summit four times, has 
visited ail its glaciers, and has made a 
reiiiarkalilo eolleetion of its flowers. In 
additir)n to the chapter on the hotan.N' of the 
National Park, this hook is indebted to him 
for several of its most valuable illustrations. 




180 



TIIK MOrXTAIX THAT WAS "COD" 




white alder, cottonwood, 
quaking aspen, vine and 
smooth-leafed maples, 
and several species of 
willows. Thus the silva 
of the lower slopes is 
highly varied. The for- 
est is often interrupted 
by the glacial canyons, 
and, at intervals, by fire- 
swept areas. 

Among these foot- 
hills and valleys, lies the 
region of the virgin 
forest. This area is 
characterized by huge 
firs and cedars, all tall, 
straight and graceful, 
without a limb for 75 to 
100 feet. This is prob- 
ably the most valuable 
area of timber in the 
world, and it is one of 
the grandest parts of the 
Park. A death-like 
silence generally per- 
vades this cool, dark 
region, where few kinds 
of animal life find a 
congenial abode. Occasionally the stillness is disturbed by the Douglas squirrel, 
busily gnawing off the fir cones for his winter's supply, or by the gentle flutter 
of the coy wren, darting to and fro among the old, fallen logs. The higher forms 
of vegetable life are also restricted to a few odd varieties. The most common of 
these are such saprophytes as pterospora andromedea, allotropa virgata, the 
so-called barber's pole, and the Indian pipe. This curious, waxy white plant is 
generally admired by all who see it, l)ut it quickly disappoints those admirers who 
gather it by turning black. 

The mosses, liverworts and lichens take possession of the trees and cover 
them with a unique decoration. The licorice fern often gains a foothold on the 
trees thus decorated, and grows luxuriantly, embedded in the deep growth of these 
plants. 

It is nearly impossible to get through this region without following a road or 
trail. For the safety of its priceless forest, there are far too few trails. In case 
of a forest fire it would be impossible to reach some areas in time to combat it 
with any success. Many beautiful regions in the lower parts of the Park are 



I4-foot Fir, near Mineral Lake. 



THE J-LOIIA OF THE MOUNTAIN SLOPES 



131 



wholly inaccessible. These 
should be ojiened with proper 
roads and trails, not only for 
their own safety, l)ut also for 
the benefit of visitors. 

The alpine meadows begin 
to appear at an altitude of 
about 5,000 feet. The real 
alpine trees, with their trim, 
straight trunks and drooping 
branches, are in strange con- 
trast to their relatives of the 
lower altitude. The principal 
trees of the meadow area are 
the alpine fir, the aljiine hem- 
lock, and the Alaska cedar. 

These constitute the greater part of the silva of Paradise Valley. There are a 
few trees of the Lovely fir in the lower part of the valley, and a few white-barked 
pines overlooking the glaciers at timber line. 




Indian Pipe 




Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's Park, showing " Mountain Heliotrope," more properly Valerian, and other 

flowers growing near the snow line. 




Moises and Kerns, In the forest reserve, on way to I.ongmlre Sprlnds. 



TIIK FLORA OF THE MOUNTAIN HLOl'FS 



133 







A bank of White Heather. 

The trees of the park zone differ greatly on different slopes. On the north- 
east and east, the white-barked pine and the alpine spruce form no small part of 
the tree groups. The white-barked pine branches out like the scrub oak on the 
prairie. It is never seen at a low altitude. The alpine spruce bears numerous 
cones all over the tree, and has sharp leaves, though not so sharp as its relative, 
the tidcland spruce. 

Not only is there a difference in the trees on the different slopes of the 
Mountain, but there is a marked difference in the herbaceous plants as well. 
Hesperogenia Strictlandi is a small, yellow plant of the celery family. This is very 
abundant, both in Spray Park and also in the 
country east of the Carbon Glacier, but rare on 
the south side. Gilia Nuttallii, a large, phlox- 
like plant, is abundant only in the Indian Henry 
region. Two anemones, one buttercup, three 
willows and one senecio seem to be confined to 
the White River country. The moss campion 
has been found only on Mowich. 

The most noticeable and abundant flower 
on all slopes is the avalanche lily (erythronium 
montanum). This plant comes up through 
several inches of the old snow crust, and forms 
beautiful beds of pure white flowers, to the 
exclusion of nearly all other plants. There are 
often from seven to nine blossoms on a stem. 
This has other popular names, such as deer- 
tongue and addertongue. There is also a 
yellow species, growing with the other, but 
less abundant. It seldom has more than one 

Hellebore (Veratrum Vlride). 




134 



TIIK MorX'IAlX THAT WAS "(JOl)' 




or 1\v() flowers on ;i .stcin. "^I'lic yellow alpine 
hutlercup generally grows with the erythro- 
niunis. It also tries to rush the season l)y 
eoniinji; u]) through the snow. 'I'he western 
anemone is a little more deliherate, hut is found 
(|uite near the snow. It ma>' he known hy its 
lavender, or j)urple flowers; and later hy 
its large ])lume-like heads, which are no less 
adnii;'e(l than the flowers themselves. 

'J'he ])lants just mentioned are the har- 
1 lingers of spring. Following them in rai)id 
succession are many plants of various hues. 
The mountain dock, mountain dandelion, and 
potent ilia seldom fail to a])i)ear later. The 
asters, often wrongl\- called daisies, are rcjire- 
sented hy several species, some of which hlos- 
som early, and are at their best along with the 
spring flowers. The great majority of the com- 
posite family bloom later, and thus jirolong the 
gorgeous array. The lui^ines add much to the 
beauty of this meadow region, both at a low alti- 
tude, and also in the region above timber line. 
Their bright purple flowers, in long racemes, with 



Alpine Hemlock and Mountain Lilies. In the 
stru(itilc for existence at the tiniher line, 
flowers prosper, hut trees fight for life 
ai^ainst storm anti snow. 



palmate leaves, arc very conspic- 
uous on the grassy slopes. Between 
timber line and 8,500 feet, Lyall's 
lupine grows in dense silk mats, Avith 
dark j)urpl(^ flowers — the most beau- 
tiful plant in that zone. 

Four different kinds of heather 
are found on the Mountain. The 
red heather is the largest and the 
mo.st abundant. It grows at a 
lower altitude than tlu; oth(>rs, 
and is sometimes, erroneously, 
called Scotch heather. ""I'lu^re are 
two kinds of white heather. One 
forms a prominent part of the 




Mountain Asters. 



TllK FI,()i{A OK TlIK MOINIAIN .SLOPES 



i;J5 




Studying the Phlox. 



flora, often growing with the red. The other is less conspicuous and grows about 
timber hne. The yellow heather also grows at the same altitude, and is larger 
and more common than the others. It often forms beautiful areas where other 
vegetation is rare. The white rhododendron is a beautiful shrub of the lower 
meadows. Its creamy white blossoms remind one of the cultivated azalea. 
There are several huckleberries, some 
with large bushes growing in the lower 
forest area, others small and adapted to the 
grassy meadows. 

The figwort family has many and curi- 
ous representatives. The rose-purple 
monkey-flower is very common and con- 
spicuous in the lower meadows, along the 
streams. It is nearly always accompanied 
by the yellow fireweed. Higher up, large 
meadow areas are arrayed in bright yel- 
low by the alpine monkey-flower. Above 
timber line, two pentstemons, with m^atted 
leaves and short stems with brilliant pur- 
ple and red flowers, cover large rocky 
patches, mixed here and there with laven- 
der beds of the alpine phlox; while the 

aml)er rays of the golden aster, scattered Squaw Grass, or Mountain Llly. 

through these variegated beds, lend their (Xerophyiium tenax) 




IJO 



THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "LiUD' 



charm to the rocky ridges. 
The IiuMun paiiit-hru.sh, the 
speedwell, the elephant's trunk, 
and the pigeon Ijills are all 
well-known nuMnhers of the 
large figwort family which docs 
much to embellish the Moun- 
tain meadows. The valerian, 
often wrongly called "moun- 
tain lieliotroi)e," is very com- 
mon on the grassy slopes. Its 
odor can often be detected 
before it is seen. The rosy 
spiraea, the mountain ash, and 
the wild currant, are three 
connnon shrubs in this area. 
There are also numerous small 
herbaceous plants of the saxi- 
frage family, some forming 
dense mats to the exclusion of 
other plants. The mertensias, 
polemoniums, and shooting 
stars add much to the puri)le 
and blue coloring. 

Two liliaceous plants of 
low altitude are always objects 
of marked interest. The 

Clintonia, popularly called alpine ])eauty, begins in the forest area, and continues 
up to the lower meadows. This may be known by its i)ure white Ijlossoms and 
blue berries. Its leaves are oblong in tufts of from two to four. They spring 
up near the roots. The other is xerophylhmi, mountain lily, sometimes called 
s(iuaw grass, because it is used by the Indians in basket making. This has tall 




Avalanche Lilies (Erythronium montanum), sometimes called deer 
tongues, forcing their way through the lingering snow. 



rt^- 




Moraine Park, Sluiskln Mountains and Mystic Lake. 




Sunrise in Indian Henry's Park, with view of the southwest slope and Peak Success, showing Purple Asters, with bunches 

of Hellebore In center of the flower field. 



138 



I'lIK MOIMAIN THAI' WAS '(iOl)- 




sterns with small fragrant flowers and 
coarse j;rass-like leaves. 

The orchid family has a few curious 
sai)roj)hytic reprcvsentatives on the 
lower slopes. Mertin's eoral-root is 
one of the most common. Tliis }j;en- 
erally grows in clusters in the mossy 
woods, alonjj; the trail or government 
road above Longmire Springs. It is 
very connnon all around the mountain 
at an altitude of 8,000 to 4,500 feet. 
^\'ith it, grow two tway-blades and i\w 
rattlesnake plantain. In hogs, two 
species of pijieria, with long spikes of 
greenish flowers, are abundant. In 
drier situations, a small form of the 
ladies' tn^sses is easily recognized by 
its sjjiral spike of small white flowers, 
which are more or less fragrant. In 
some of the swamps at the l)ase of 
the mountain grows Limnorchis leiico- 
•stachys. This is one of our most fra- 
grant flowers, as well as one of the 
most beautiful, with its long spike of 
pure white })lossoms. 
Of the ferns, the common brake is sometimes seen on the slopes near the termi- 
nal moraines of the glaciers. On the old moraines and cliiTs is found the pea fern 
(cryptogratnmn acrostichoides) , so called l)ecausc the pinnules of its fruiting fronds 
resemble those of a pea pod. This dainty little fern with its two kinds of fronds 
is always admired by mountain visitors. It is strictly a mountain fern. The 
deer fern also has two kinds of fronds, but this grows all the way from sea level 
to the glaciers, being at its best in the dense forest area. The delicate oak fern 
grows in great abundance from Eatonville to the timber line, and probably does 
more to beautify the woods than any other fern. The sword fern grows in dense, 
radiate clusters, all through the mossy woods. The fronds are often five or si.x 
feet in length. The maidenhair fern is found along streams, waterfalls and moist 
cliffs, reaching its highest development in the deep canyons cut through the 
dense forest. 

On the very top of Pinnacle Peak and similar elevations, grows the beautiful 
mountain lace fern (cheilanthc.s gracillima.) Nearly every tourist presses a souvenir 
of it in his notebook. Phegopteris alpesteris is abundant along the glacial valleys, 
where the tall grasses and the beautiful array of alpine plants delight the eye. 
These ferns and grasses give a rich green color to the varigat(>d slopes where 
nature blends so many harmonious colors in matchless grandeur in this great 
fair\lan(l of (lowers. 



Ancfnonc Seed Pods. 



TIIK FLORA OF TlIK MOIXTAIN SLOPES 



139 




The writer has a 
list of al)()ut three hun- 
(h'ed and sixty species 
from tii(> IVIountain. 
It inchules only flow- 
ering plants and ferns. 
There are more tiian 
twenty type speeies 
n amed from the 
Mountain, not a few 
of which are found 
nowhere else. Its 
ge()<>raphical position 

makes it the boundary between the arctic plants from the North and the plants 
of Oregon and California from the South. Its great altitude has a wonderful 
effect on plant life. This is seen in the trees at timber line, where snow rests 
upon them for months. Their prostrate trunks and gnarled branches give ample 
testimony to their extreme struggle for existence. Where the ordinary plants 
cease to exist the snowy protococcus holds undisputed sway on the extensive 
snow fields. This is a small one-celled microscopic plant having a blood red color 
in one stage of its existence. Even in the crater, on the warm rocks of the rim, 
will be found three or four mosses — I have noted one there which is not found 
anywhere else — several lichens, and at least one liverwort. 



Wind Swept Trees on North Side, tlie last below the Snow line. 




Lupines. 




MGMT, 1910, BY E E. CUTTER. 

The Mountain, as seen from a hlfih ridge In the Cascades near c;rcen River Hot Springs, showing the north and 
east faces of the Peak, and Little Tahoma on the left. 



NOTES. 

Rates, Trains, Hotel Accommodations. The round-trip fare from Taconui via the Taconia 
Eastern i.s $().()0. This iiichules railway transportation to Asliford and automobile-stage ride 
trom Ashford to Lonfjmire Sprinj^s and return. Tickets are good for the season. To parties 
of ten or more traveling together a single tieket is i.ssued at $.").()() per capita. A week-end 
ticket, Satunhiy to Monday, is sold at $5.00. The rates from Seattle to the Springs are $1.50 
more, in each case, than the Tacoma rates. The train schedule for 1'.>11 follows: 



SOUTHBOUND 



l-(>ave Seattle. . 
Arri\'(> Tacoma. 
i.ra\'(^ Tacoma. 
Arri\(! Ashford 
I -cave Ashford. 



. 7.45 A. M. and 12.30 p 
S.55 A. M. and 1.40 p 
. 9.05 A. M. and 
11.20 A. M. and 
,11.30 A. M. and 



Arrive at Inn 12.45 p. m. and 



. M. 
. M. 

L.^Op. m. 
4.05 p. m. 
4.15 p. M. 
5.30 p. M. 



NORTHBOUND 

Leave Inn 7.15 a. m. and 

Arrive Ashford. . . . S.30 a. m. and 

Leave Ashford S.40 a. m. and 

Arrive Tacoma. . . . 10.55 a. m. and 

Leave Tacoma 11.05 a. m. and 

Arrive Seattle 12.15 p. m. and 



1.30 p. 


M. 


2.45 p. 


M. 


2.55 p. 


M. 


5.10 p. 


M. 


5.15 p. 


M. 


6.30 p. 


M. 



The National Park Inn, Longmire Springs, provides excellent rooms in the Inn, with a large 
number of well-furnished and comfort al)le tents near by. The rates range from $2.50 to $3.75 
a day, including meals. The dining-room is under the Chicago, Milwaukee & Pugct Sound 
dining-car management, which insures a satisfactory table. 

.\t the older Longmire Hotel, the rate is $2.50 a day for room and board. This hotel is open 
all the 3'ear, and in winter is much frequented by persons seeking Winter sports, or making 
use of the mineral springs. 

The springs are of great variety, and are highly recommended for their medicinal virtues. 
\\'ithin an area of several acres, there are a score of these springs, varying from the normal tem- 
jxTalure of a mountain stream almost to blood heat. Well-appointed bathhouses are main- 
1ainc<l. Fee, including attendance, $1.00. 

At Itee.se's Camp, in Paradi.se Park, and at Mrs. Hall's similar tent hotel in Indian Henry's 
Park, the charge for meals, with a tent for sleeping, is $2..'>0 per day. 



Stages, Horses, Guides. — The cost of getting from Longmire Springs to Paradise or Indian 
nenrj''s is moderate. Many prefer to make the trips on foot over the mountain trails. Parties 
are made up several times a day, under experienced guides, for each of these great "parks, "and 
sure-footed horses are provided for those who wish to ride, at $1.50 for the round trip. Guides 
and horses for the new trail to Eagle Peak are at the same rate. Guides may be had at the 



NOTES 141 

National Park Inn or at either of the "camps" for many interesting trips over the mountain 
trails. Horses also are furnished. The charge varies with the number in a party. 

Stages carry passengers from the Inn over the government road to Nisqually glacier, Narada 
Falls and Reese's Camp in Paradise Park. The charge for the trip to Narada and return is 
$2.00; to Paradise and return, $3.00. 

I<'or those who wish to make the ascent to the summit over the Gibraltar trail, trustworthy 
guides may be engaged at the Inn or at Reese's. Arrangements should be made several days 
in advance. The cost of such a f rij) depends upon the number in a party. The guides make a 
charge of $25 for the first member of the party, and $.5 each for the others. They furnish 
alpenstocks, ropes, and calks for the shoes of climbers at a reasonable charge. Each person 
should carry with him a blanket or extra coat and a small amount of food, for use in the event of 
being on the summit over night. Still heavier clothing will be required if the night is to be spent 
at Camp Muir. A sleeping-bag, which can be easily made, or purchased at any outfitter's, will 
prove invaluable to campers. Ascents from other points than Reese's are usually made in special 
parties. All persons are warned not to attempt an ascent unless accompanied by experienced 
guides. • Lives have been lost through neglect of this precaution. 

For persons visiting the North Side, the Northern Pacific rate from Tacoma to Fairfax is 
$1.2.5, and from Seattle to Fairfax, with change of cars at Puyalluj), $1.75. Guides and horses 
may be engaged at Fairfax for th{! Spray Park trail. 

Automobiles and Motorcycles. — These vehicles are permitted to use the government road, 
as far as the Nisqually glacier, under the following regulations of the Interior Department: 

No automobile or motorcycle will be permitted within the Park unless its owner secures a 
written permit from the Superintendent, Edward S. Hall, Ashford, Washington, or his representa- 
tive. Applications must show: Names of owner and driver, number of machine, and inclusive 
dates for which permit is desired, not exceeding one year, and be accompanied by a fee of $5 
for each automobile and $1 for each motorcycle. All permits v/ill expire on December 31. 
Permits must be presented to the Superintendent or his authorized representatives at the park 
entrance on the government road. 

Automobiles and motorcycles will be permitted on the government road west of Longmire 
Springs between the hours of 7 a. m. a,nd 8.30 p. m., but no automobile or motorcycle shall enter 
the Park or leave Longmire Springs in the direction of the western boundary, later than 8 p. m.. 
the use of automobiles and motorcycles to be permitted between Longmire Springs and Nisqually 
glacier between the hours of 9 a. m. and 9.30 p. m., but no automobile or motorcycle shall leave 
Longmire Springs in the direction of the glacier later than 7 p. m. 

When teams, saddle horses, or pack trains approach, automobiles and motorcycles shall 
take position on the outer edge of the roadway, taking care that suflScient room is left on the 
inside for them to pass, and remaining at rest until they have passed, or until the drivers are 
satisfied regarding the safety of their horses. Horses have the right of way, and automobiles 
and motorcycles will be backed or otherwise handled to enable horses to pass with safety. 

Speed shall be limited to 6 miles per hour, except on straight stretches where approaching 
teams, saddle horses, and pack trains will be visible, when, if none are in sight, this speed may 
be increased to the rate indicated on signboards along the road; in no event, however, shall it 
exceed 15 miles per hour. Signal with horn shall be given at or near every bend to announce to 
approaching drivers the proximity of a machine. 

Violation of any of the foregoing rules, or the general regulations of the Park, will cause the 
revocation of permit, subject the owner of the automobile or motorcycle to any damages oc- 
casioned thereby and to ejectment from the reservation, and be cause for refusal to issue a new 
permit without prior sanction in writing from the Secretary of the Interior. 

Literature of the Mountain. — Vancouver, Winthrop, Kautz, Stevens and Van Trump have 
been noted in the text. Other early accounts of, or references to, the Mountain may be found in 
Wilkes: Narmtive U. S. exploring expedilion. Phil. 1S45, v. 4, 413, 415, 424; U. S. War Dcp't: 
Explorations for railroad to Pacific, lHnS-4, v. 1, 192; Cntdts: Journal Am. Geog. Soc.,v. 4, 354-357. 



]i2 



NOTKS 



('iil)l).s'.s Indian vocabuhirics, pulilislicii at dilTcrcnl dales, wcri' reprinted four years after liis death 
\\\ Caidiibulions to Am. Elhnol., v. 1. Wash. 1S77. 

For Einnions's account of liis exploration in 1S70, see BuUtlin Am. (noy. .S'w. v. 9, 41 Gl. Am. 
Jtiur. of Science, v. 101, loT-lGT, and Nation v. 23, 313. Prof. Israel C. Russell's studies of the 
peak are in I'. S. gcol. .surrey, 5th an. rep. 335-339. and 18th an. rep., part 2, 349-415. See also his 
(ildcier.s of .V. Am., Host. 1901, ()2-()7, and Volcanoes of N. Am., Host. 1.S95, 241-24G. For other 
:iccessii)Ie studies consult Wrii/lil: Ice age in N.Am.S. Y. 1SX9, and Miiir: Our ikiHiiikiI parks. 
Host. 1901. 

The long controversy over the name of the jjeak is impartially reviewed in Snoirden: History 
of Washington. N. Y. 1909, v. 4, 249-254. Snowden calls esjx'cial attention to an able pajx-r by 
the late Thaddeus Ilanford of Olympia on the Indian names anil reconunending the name Tacoma 
for the Territory, which was printi^d in the Washington Standard in January, ISGG. This article 
should be reprinted by the State Historical .Society, as it represents a movement of considerable 
force at one time against the inept and confusing name adopted for the State. The Indian 
evidence for the native name of the Mountain was collected in Wickersham: Is it "Mt. Tacoma'' 
or "Mt. Rainier.'", pamphlet, Tacoma, 1S93. The argument of an eminent traveler and author 
against "Mt. Rainier" may be found in Finck: Pacific coast scenic tour. N. Y. 1S91, 209-213, 
229-230; also in the same writer's more recent article, Scribner's Magazine, v. 47, 234-5. See also 
Lyniinr. The Columbia rircr. N. Y. 1909, p. 32, 352-370, and The Mountains of Washington, in 
Till Moiiiiliiiiiti r. v. 1,7 10; and Charles F. Lununis's editorial articles in 0//< We.st, v. 23, 3(17 an<i 
491. ( »n (he other hand, Prof. David.son, in Sierra Club Bulletin, v. G, S7-9S, presents reason.s on 
whi( li tliat club accepted "Mt. Rainier." 

Wheeler: Climbing Mt. Rainier, St. Paul, 1S95, and Phnnmrr: Ilbistrtded guide tmok to Mt. 
Tacoma, Tacoma, n. d., are two pamphlets now out of prini . 

The a.scents by the Mazama, Sierra and Mountaineers clubs have furnished material for a 
great variety of articles on the geology, botany and glacier action, as well as many accounts of 
climl)ing adventures. Mazama, v. 2, Sierra Club Bulletin, v. G, and The Mou/daineer, v. 1 and 2, 
aie mainly devoted to this peak. For articles in periodicals of WMder circulation, see Review of Re- 
views, V. 9, 1G3-171 (by Carl Snyder); Out West, v. 24, 365-395 (^^'illoughby Rodman); National 
geog. mag., v. 20, 530-53S (Milnor Roberts) ; Scribner's v. 22, 1G9-171 (I. C. Russell) ; Outing, v. 5, 
323-332 (J. li. W. Hitchcock), and v. 38, 386-392 (Ada Woodruff Anderson); Overland, n. s., v. 2, 
300-312 (VV. D. Lyman), v. 8, 266-278 (George Bailey), v. 32, 114-123 (J. P. Montgomery), v. 46, 
447-455 (Harry H. Brown), v. 55, 552-560 (A. W. McCully), and v. 56, 150-155 (A. W. McCully); 
Pacific monthly, v. 8, 196-202 (.lohn Muir); The tvorld today, v. 9, 1047-53 (Anne Shannon Mon- 
roe); Good irords, v. 42, 101-114 (.Vrthur Inkersley); Appalachia, v. 7, 185-205 (P>nest C. Smith), 
andv. 11, 114-125 (W.A.Brooks); Courdrylifein Am.,\. 14, 170-171 (C. E. Cutter); 77(t' A'oW//- 
wesl, V. 1, 2-10 (Bailey WWha); Outdoor life, v. 26, 15-24 (Edna Cadwallader). Spe.ial studies of 
the rocks of the peak may be found in I'. S. geol. sur., 12th an. rep. pi. 1, G12 (J. P. Iddingsj, and 
in Neues Jahrbuch, v. 1, 222-22(), Stuttgart, 18S5 (K. Oebeke). 




Claclul ilubrls on lower part iif Wliithrop Cilacler, wltli Slul.sklii .Mountains beyond. 



INDEX. 



Figures in li^lit face type refer to ihe text, those in llie heaivor typo to illustrations 



Adams. Mount, 77, Sfi. 64, 66 

Allen, I'ror. (). 1).. collage. 49 

Alta \l.slu. I'.l, 60 

American Alpine Clul). 120 

Anemones, 32: seed pods, 138 

Appalachian I'lub. 12() 

Ascents, Kautz, 117: Stevens and Van 

Trump, 120-1; Kmnions and Wilson, 

124: IJIascock and Dudley, 12.">; llu? 

mountain clubs, 126 
Autoinohlles. 57. 70-72, 141, 41, 49. S4 
Avalanche on Willis Wall. 119 
Avalanche Camp. 103, 104, 105 
Avalanche l.llles. I.?6 
Makei-, Mount. Sfl. !)S, 99 
Halllnmr, Richard, H. 7.') 
llasaltlc Columns, — South Mowlch. 23: 

on Cowlitz, 93 
Bashford, Herbert, — verse, 17 
Mee lllve. 76, 80 
Hiljica. view from, 27 
Brooks, Francis. — verse. 40 
Cabins needed on the ridges. 110. 144 
•Camp of Ihe e'louds. 4!(. til, 60 
Carbon river, "ill. 103, 114 
Cascade Moualalus, 66, 87. 90. 96 
Cathedral Hocks, sr,, 76, 84, 78 
Chittenden, Maj. H. M., urges trail, 09 
Columbia's Crest, .SO, 88, 52, 78 
Commencement Hay, 28 
Congress, action affucUng the Park, .58, 

r,'.>. 117, 70 
Cowlitz Chimneys, 43. 78. 81 
Cowlitz Cleaver. >ir>. 76, 78. 81 
Cowlitz Park. 04, 93 
Crater, M). 88, 89 
Crater Lake, 117 
Crater Peak. 13, 80, 60, 89 
Curtis. Camp, on the Wedge, 97 
Cushman. Krancls W, 59, 108 
Dudley. lOrnest, 125 
Fagle Cliff, 51 
Eagle Peak (SImlayshe) , 30. 31; new 

trail to, 141 
Kagle Hock In winter, 7 
East -side route to summit, 117, 120, 100 
ICdmunds, tieorge F., 90 
Electric-power development, 108-112 
lOU'ctron. The Mountain from, 13, 19; 

Power plant at. Ills. 112 
Emmons. S. F.. (ieologlst, 94-97 
Fairfax, trail from. .^)0 
Fair Mountaineer, A, 35 
Fairy Falls. 73 
Kay Peak. 51, 92 
Ferns. 1H2 

Fires, danger of forest, 8, 58. 130 
I'lett, Prof.. J. B., 129, n 
Flint. I'rank P.. U. S. Senator. 75 
Flood. Indian legend of the. 39 
l''o\ Island, the Mountain from, 14 
iMiuiilaln. Paul, iiuofed. 41! 
Fuller, Ml.ss Fay, 120, 72 
Gap Point, 01, 54 
"Ohost Trees," 50 
GIbbs, George, on name "Mt. Tacoma, " 

104, 107, 142 
Gibraltar Kock, 82, S5, llli. 121, 60, 68, 

71. 76, 78. 81, 82. 81. 85. 86 
Ghu'iers, their number and work, 79 - 

83; moraines, 83, 68, 77, 79. 96; rate 

of flow, 83, 72; names, 93-97; rivers, 

108 
— Carbon, .50, 51, 77, 103, 105, 107, 108, 

118. 119, 120, 121, 129 
— ('owlltz, 50, 93, 6. 51. 78. 81, 84, 87 
— Erylng-Pan. 93. 41, 96, 97 
■ — Ingraham. 93. 78 
— Interglacler. 93, 98. 99 
—Kautz. 93. 27, 30. 37. 60, 68 
— Xorth Mowlch, 50 52, 90, 13, 123, 

124, 128 
— South Mowlch, .52, 13, 22, 23 
— NMsquallv, 49, 31, 55, 57, 60, 68, 69, 

71, 72, 78, 81 
—Paradise. 50. 94, 97. 25. 31, 60, 79 
— Puvallup, .52. 13. 27. 33 
—Stevens, 50, 97, 61, 64, 79 
— Xortli Tahoma, 93, 13, 26, 27, 32, 33, 

37 



—South Tahoma, 93, 17, 27, 32, 34, 
37, 60 

—Van Trump, 94, 31, 60 
— White, 50. 81, 93. 9. 12. 94. 9.i, 94, 
100, 121 

— WInlhrop. ,50, 51, 93, 94. 8, 17. 100, 
lO.i. 104. 107. 113. 126, 142 

Cl.iscH-k. liaglan, 125 

•■<;oat Maud," moraine. 96 

<;oal .Mountain (Ml. Wow), 28 

<;o;it Peaks. 87. 90. 94 

Grand Park. ,51. 04, 98. 99 

Green Hlver, view of the Mountain from, 

140 
Guides, 113, 141 
Hanging glaciers, 51, 57 
Heather, 133 
Hellebore, 133 

Hlaqua Hunter, Myth, 32-39 
Hood, Mt., 86 
Hylebos, P. F. (Rev.), 28. n 
Ice caves. 31, 73 
Indian Henry's Hunting Ground. 49, 

25. 29. 32, 34. 36. 37. 40, 50, 131. 137 
—Mrs. Halls Canip, 141 
Indians, nature worshli) of the Mountain, 

25 31, 39; Puget Sound tribes, 25. 20: 

fear of the snow-peaks, 32, 121 
Ingraham, MaJ. E. S , 100 
Interglaclers, 93 

Iron aiKl Co|)per mountains, 25, 30 
Jones. Wesley I,., f. S. Senator, 75 
Jordan. l)a\i(l Starr. 07 
Jud,S(jn, Ml.ss Katharine B, 35, 39 
Kautz. Gen.. A. V.. 117 
Kul.shan, Indian name for Mt. Baker, 

Kutz, Maj. C. W., 69 

Liberty Cap (North Peak), 86, 22, 89, 

114 
Little Tahoma, 82, 85, 9, 31, 60, 78, 79, 

94. 121 
Longmire, James, trail and road, 59 
Longmlre Hotel, 141 
Longmire Springs. 44, 51, 141, 52 
Lost to the World, 69 
Lupines, 139 

McClure. Prof. Edgar, death, 115 
Marmot, 26 
Matthes, F^rancols E., U. S. geologist, 

89, 97 
Mazama (mountain goat). 23 
Mazama Club, 126, 81, 82 
Mazama Ridge, 60 
Mineral Lake. 18 
Moraine Park, 51, 120, 105, 113. 117, 

129, 136 
Mosses and ferns. 132 
Mother Mountains, 103. 114, 116, 122, 

129 
Mountaineers, The, 120. 61, 121, 126 
Mountain goat, 23 
Mountain Lllv. 136, 135 
Mountain Pine, 28 

Mulr John, quoted, 77, 113, 129; Por- 
trait. 116 
Mulr. Camp. 115, 60, 80, 83 
Mvstic Lake. 113 
Narada Falls. 01. 107. 58 
National Park, .see Rainier Natl. Park 
National Parks, proposed Bureau of, 75 
National Park Inn, 44, 50, 52 
NlS(|Ually Canyon. 21 
Nlsqually (llacler (see Glaciers) 
Nl.S(|iiallv river. 108, 111. 21. 24. 55 
North Peak (Liberty Cap), 13, 22, 89 
Ohoii \alle.\-. 43 
Pacliic 1-orest Re.serve, 59 
Paradl.se HU'er. 59 
Paradise \ alley, or Park, 30, 49-51, 01, 

31. .?9, 46. 53. 59, 60. 62 
Peak Success (.South Peak), .SO. 123-125. 

13, 24, 25, 27, 33. 37. 60, 68, 78 
Phlox, 135 

Pierce Countv road. 43. 49 
Piles, S, II., C. S Seiiaior. 70 
Pinnacle Peak. ,<S, V>. 41.. 47 
Point Deliance Park, IS 
Power-plants on the Mountain, 1()S-I12. 

Ill, 112 



Proctor, Miss Edna Dean, poem, "Th.- 

Mountain Speaks, " 15 
Ptarmigan, 40 

Puget Sound 18, 25, 14: named by Van- 
couver, 98, 
Puyallup river, lOS. 40 
Pyrandd Peak, 25. 60 
Hallwa.\s to Puget .Sound. 44; to the 

Mountain, 54, 57: rates and time table, 

140 
Rainier, Rear-Admiral Peter, 7, 98, 100, 

103, n., 101 
Reeses Camp. 61, 1 15, 141 , 64 
Hellectlon Lake, 60, 77 
Rainier National Park, 54; Increasing 

use of. 50, 57; Its creation, 58-9; sej 

also Roads 
Rlcksecker, Eugene, engineer, 01, 62. 

70, 97 
Rivers fed by the Mountain. 108 
Rocks lit the Mcjuntaln. S2. I 12 
Roads and trails. I>lerce County's to the 

Mountain, 44. 50. 42, 43, 44, 49; 

government road In National Park, 

57-02, 51, 54. 55. 56; trails 44, 45. 

50-2, 55, 56. 121 ; proposed road around 

the Mountain. 02-70; need 5S, 130 
Rough cllintilng. 39 
Rus.sell. Prof. Israel C, 94 
Russell Peak. S2, 103. 105 
Saghalle Illahe. Indian land of peace, 30 
St, Elmo Pa.ss, 8, 98. 100. 102, 104 
St. Hi'len's, Mt.. 77. SO, 29, 36 
Seattle, IS, 43, 44, lOS 
Senedo, 129 

Sierra Club, 75, 126, 57, 69 
SImlayshe (Eagle Peak). 30 
Slwashes, origin of term, 28, n. See also 

Indians. 
Slulskln, guides Stevens and Van Trump, 

28, 32, 120-1 
Slulskln FalLs, 67 
Slulskln Mountains, 51, 103, 105. 126. 

136, 142 
Snipe Lake, 98 
Snow Lake, 34 

Sour-Dough Mountains, 8, 98. 99 
Spanaway Lake, 4 
South Peak, see Peak Success 
Spray Fall.s, 125 

S|)ray Park, 50, 51, 92. 106. 116. 122 
Steamboat Prow. 51. 85, 104 
Steam Caves In Crater. 88 
Stevens, Gen. Hazard, 28, n., 32, 96, 97. 

120-4, 115 
Stevens Canyon. 64. 66 
Storm King Peak. 18 
Summit. On the, 52; South-side route to. 

60; East -side route, 100 
"Sunshine" and "Storm," 70 
"Tacoma," Indian name for the Moun- 
tain, 25, 100-7 
Tacoma (City) 18, 43, 44. Ill 
Tatoosh Mountains, 50. 53. 59, 60, 62. 

64. 87 
Tolmie, Dr. W. F., 117 
Trees In the National Park, 129-131. 

139, 42, 130, 132 
Tyndall, Prof. Jolm, quoted, 77 
ITnleorn Peak, 65 

Ifnlted States Geological Survey. S9 
Vancouver, Capt. George, discovers and 

names the Mountain. 9S-I01 
VanTrump, P. B., 2S. n,, 32, 120-5, 115 
Washington, Lake, the Mountain from, 

16 
Washington Torrents, 59 
W aterfall above Paradise Valley, 63 
Wedge. The, 51. 85. 8. 97, 99, 100 
W hite river. 110, 12, 112 
Whltnev, Mt., 90 
Willis, Ballev, geologist, 96, 97 
Wilson. A. D., 90. 97 
Whulge. see Puget Sound 
WInthroi). Theodore. 93; describes the 

Mountain. ID-' 4: authority for his 

use of the Indian name. 104-7 
Wind-swept trees, 28, 139 
Wow, Ml. (Goat Mountain), 28 
'Yellowstone National Park, 57, 07. 72 




Map of RAINIER NATIONAL PARK 

Compiled by EUGENE RICKSECKER 
U. S. Assistant Engineer 




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